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Service, Recalls, Warranty & Maintenance Valuable service and maintenance information. Also discussion which engine and transmission fluids you use.

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Old 02-01-2010, 12:01 AM   Thread Starter #1
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Default Engine Oil Thread

From the basics would be a debate abou"Conventional vs Synthetic"
There are some holes in those so called "Synthetic Oils". I will more as time goes by coloring used on the oils:
  • "Green" being best/recommended
  • "Orange" being you can use but should change
  • "Red" change
Few stories claim not all "Synthetic Based Oils" are the same. When I mean not the same I'm talking about the quality and the base stock used.
Motor oils consist of GRP II, III, IV, V
  • Most Conventionals belong to GRP II+III more of a mix of two depending on company
  • Most Synthetics belong to GRP III with plenty additives and modifiers
  • Now Note this GRP III is not a real Synthetic base!!!
  • Mobil 1/Exxon have sued Castrol years ago because of Castrol putting "Synthetic"
  • On Bottles that contain GRP III stocks.
  • Castrol did win that one and ever since every oil that says "Made in USA"
  • Is a GRP III stock or at least most.
Now note this i am not saying III based oils are bad, Just saying not the true thing
Pennzoil Platinum: grp III (One of the best III synthetic oils) (Recommend)

Mobil 1: Most are grp III (Look for the European Vehicle Formula) 0W40 which is grp IV (Recommend])

Castrol: Most are grp III (Look for GC aka German Castrol it should say "made in Germany") 0W30 (Recommend)

Royal Purple: grp III/IV/V (I don't recommend it seen plenty of lab reports containing plenty of particles from various engine parts)

Amsoil: Most are grp IV/V some III mix (Recommend 0W30 with this one)

Eneos: grp III/IV (Recommend most are made in japan)

Oil Weights:
With today's extensive technology in motor vehicles motor oils became a something like a dual weight. Back many years ago it was a single weight.


Now the terms:
  • The first number example "5" W30 is the cold temperature weight not the running temperature.
  • Second number 5W "30" This is the number for weight when running normal temperatures.
  • For the cold start weight most say 5W i say either 0W or 5W
  • For the running 30W is good but i say 40W if you do plenty of spirited driving!
  • Some say you can run 50W i do not recommend unless you have a built motor with a turbo on it.
OMZORZ IM BURNING OIL!!!!
Whoa calm down there buddy!!!


No oil in the world will stop engine oil burning NOTE i am talking about 1 quart every 1k miles or more. Few reasons why it could be:
  • Worn/Bad Piston Rings
  • Leaks The pan/Bolt/Filter etc etc
Most are caused by the owner purchasing the vehicle and not giving two shits about the car just driving off the lot with heavy loads!!!

The Nissan Manual states you must drive the engine under 4K for a various miles 2,000-5,000 .

Not doing this ? Then you will see engine burning early as 60K miles
You can however patch the problem by using 0W40-50W weight oils which will NOT FIX.
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Last edited by OwenMaxx; 02-11-2010 at 04:42 PM.
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Old 02-11-2010, 04:49 PM   Thread Starter #2
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Default Re: Engine Oil Thread

The following pictures taken by me to make things more easy
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Old 02-11-2010, 04:50 PM   Thread Starter #3
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Default Re: Engine Oil Thread

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