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Old 05-04-2012, 10:52 PM   Thread Starter #1
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Default CEL: P1031, P1051, P1148, P1168

all right, long story short: one of my pre-cats went bad on me back in the summer of 2009, saw a random mechanic for the fix (wasnt very mechanically inclined back then), and ever since that bastard got done with my car, i've had a CEL light for: p1031, p1051, p0057, p0037, p1168, p1148.
i got the stock cats on my car and the racingline y-pipe. so its not really similar to eddys issues because i know he had to deal with the same codes but he's got headers.

i replaced the A/F sensor in bank 2 and suddenly the codes p0057 and p0037 were gone. i replaced both o2 sensors and nothing happened. and for the last A/F sensor in bank 1, i met up with a member in NYC (05vk56) to tackle this problem together and we came up with nothing. if anyones got any advice on the issue, i'd be grateful, but i guess i'll figure this problem out later or eventually. the only thing left is the harness really. i cant think of much else. i will be taking off the upper manifold again and be measuring voltages to see what i get, but as for the time being, can any of the NJ members point me to a shop that sells state inspection stickers just so i can have more time to figure this out? price isnt really a big deal. i just need to get this damn sticker.

but nonetheless, if anyone needs a good mechanic to do work on your car, Luis (05vk56) is a good man to go to, located in NYC. he definitely helped me out and treated me to pizza after 7 damn hours trying to figure this crap out lol. we attracted alot of attention just be working on the streets lol. enjoy the pictures guys

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luis handling the manifold
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Old 05-06-2012, 01:30 PM   #2
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Default Re: CEL: p1031, P1051, P1148, P1168

Originally Posted by KZ 259 View Post
all right, long story short: one of my pre-cats went bad on me back in the summer of 2009, saw a random mechanic for the fix (wasnt very mechanically inclined back then), and ever since that bastard got done with my car, i've had a CEL light for: p1031, p1051, p0057, p0037, p1168, p1148.
i got the stock cats on my car and the racingline y-pipe. so its not really similar to eddys issues because i know he had to deal with the same codes but he's got headers.

i replaced the A/F sensor in bank 2 and suddenly the codes p0057 and p0037 were gone. i replaced both o2 sensors and nothing happened. and for the last A/F sensor in bank 1, i met up with a member in NYC (05vk56) to tackle this problem together and we came up with nothing. if anyones got any advice on the issue, i'd be grateful, but i guess i'll figure this problem out later or eventually. the only thing left is the harness really. i cant think of much else. i will be taking off the upper manifold again and be measuring voltages to see what i get,

First thing first is your codes
P0037 >H02S2 HTR (B1) Heater
P0057 >HO2S2 HTR (B2) Heater
P1031 >A/F SEN1 HTR (B1) Heater
P1051 >A/F SEN2 HTR (B2) heater
P1148 >Cloosed Loop Bank 1
P1168 >Closed Loop Bank 2

My questions to you are the following

which cat went bad in 2009? B1 or B2
Did you scan your A/F sensors and were they fluctuating within 1.3-1.6V when vehicle is warmed up and being held at 3000 Rpm
Have you reset the ECM after replacing the B2 A/F sensor? and was this sensor bought new or used? As a matter of fact were all the sensors replaced bought new and used.

Also, checking voltages at the sensor side does does not neccesarily let you know what the exact values the ECM is seeing down the harness You could backprobe the pins @ the ECM however I dont advies that as I would recommend to use diagnostic Scanner first and seeing the values if you have not already. If you have post the numbers....both A/F sensors
Also HO2S1 & HO2S2 should be within 0-1volt fluctuations....
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Old 05-06-2012, 03:43 PM   Thread Starter #3
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Default Re: CEL: p1031, P1051, P1148, P1168

Click the image to open in full size.

this is the cat that got replaced. it does not specify which bank on the receipt and this was actually done in 10/5/10. i was definitely off there with the date lol

at this time, the codes p0037, p0057 are gone after i replaced the bank 2 AF sensor.

all the sensors were bought brand new, off of rockauto.com.
no, i did not check out the voltages while the car was idling at 3k RPM.
did not reset the ECM. do i unplug the battery for X amount of hours or find the ECU itself? i actually gave the ECU number to luis because he thinks my ECU might need updating btw.

i will post up the V numbers as soon as my ELM 327 comes in the mail.

also, i'm gonna do a quick DIY on how to find the actually ECU itself just in case anybody needs access to it. i found out its not in the same location as previous gens

thanks for your feedback man, appreciate it!




Originally Posted by Danski6MT View Post
First thing first is your codes
P0037 >H02S2 HTR (B1) Heater
P0057 >HO2S2 HTR (B2) Heater
P1031 >A/F SEN1 HTR (B1) Heater
P1051 >A/F SEN2 HTR (B2) heater
P1148 >Cloosed Loop Bank 1
P1168 >Closed Loop Bank 2

My questions to you are the following

which cat went bad in 2009? B1 or B2
Did you scan your A/F sensors and were they fluctuating within 1.3-1.6V when vehicle is warmed up and being held at 3000 Rpm
Have you reset the ECM after replacing the B2 A/F sensor? and was this sensor bought new or used? As a matter of fact were all the sensors replaced bought new and used.

Also, checking voltages at the sensor side does does not necessarily let you know what the exact values the ECM is seeing down the harness You could backprobe the pins @ the ECM however I dont advies that as I would recommend to use diagnostic Scanner first and seeing the values if you have not already. If you have post the numbers....both A/F sensors
Also HO2S1 & HO2S2 should be within 0-1volt fluctuations....
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Old 05-06-2012, 10:30 PM   #4
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Default Re: CEL: p1031, P1051, P1148, P1168

Originally Posted by KZ 259 View Post
Click the image to open in full size.

this is the cat that got replaced. it does not specify which bank on the receipt and this was actually done in 10/5/10. i was definitely off there with the date lol

at this time, the codes p0037, p0057 are gone after i replaced the bank 2 AF sensor.

all the sensors were bought brand new, off of rockauto.com.
no, i did not check out the voltages while the car was idling at 3k RPM.
did not reset the ECM. do i unplug the battery for X amount of hours or find the ECU itself? i actually gave the ECU number to luis because he thinks my ECU might need updating btw.

i will post up the V numbers as soon as my ELM 327 comes in the mail.

also, i'm gonna do a quick DIY on how to find the actually ECU itself just in case anybody needs access to it. i found out its not in the same location as previous gens

thanks for your feedback man, appreciate it!
You are welcome buddy!
As far as locating your ECM its located in behind the glove box....Before you remove it though make sure you unhook the battery terminals and drain all the residual power by either touching the brake pedal or running the headlights on and touching the terminals together for a couple seconds... without touching the battery...

As far as all the resets are concerned here you go:

Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning
Operation Procedure

1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch OFF wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Operation Procedures

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch ON.
3. Turn ignition switch is OFF wait at least 10 seconds.

Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.

Operation Procedures

1. Perform Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning?.
2. Perform Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning?.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.

ECM RESET

Here is a quick way to reset your ECU. It is also known to clear codes thrown, and turn off the "Service Engine Soon" Light. It's a little tricky, but works.

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following two procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds:
1. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 seconds.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.



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Old 05-07-2012, 12:37 AM   Thread Starter #5
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Default Re: CEL: p1031, P1051, P1148, P1168

is it necessary to do all those relearning procedures? I drove the car after disconnecting the battery and it drives just like before. I don't mind doing it, but just double checking on it.
I will do the ECU reset soon and will post up the voltage numbers once I can. thanks again man!
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Old 05-07-2012, 08:51 PM   #6
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Default Re: CEL: p1031, P1051, P1148, P1168

The volts were at .70 when I was monitoring the ecu parameters while I had cipher connected. The only thing I did not view was the volts while holding the revs at 2k. I also reset the ecu, and cleared the learned fuel settings.

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Old 05-08-2012, 07:55 AM   Thread Starter #7
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Default Re: CEL: p1031, P1051, P1148, P1168

@Danski6MT

i just did the ECU reset last night, even got it on camera, and nothing changed. the CEL came back approx. 10 seconds later. i'll be getting the ELM 327 today so i'll get the voltages while idling at 3k RPM.

heres the video:

http://s881.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=CELreset.mp4
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Old 05-08-2012, 08:58 AM   #8
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Default Re: CEL: P1031, P1051, P1148, P1168

Ok. That's a good starting point. Post your codes that came back on.

I need voltages of the A/f sensors as well as the rear sensors. Also you had codes before w for the heaters on the A/f sensors. Was the front A/f sensor you changed a direct fit or universal(meaning you sliced wires)....? Im almost certain this is why your car is why throwing a closed/open loop code as the heaters can't heat up and take a fuel sample.....

Also the voltage posted of .70 is not telling me much. Was the voltage fluctuating or stuck on .70V ( your rear 02 sensors must switch also.

Btw your link shows nothing on my screen.
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Old 05-08-2012, 09:04 AM   #9
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Default Re: CEL: P1031, P1051, P1148, P1168

Originally Posted by 05vk56 View Post
The volts were at .70 when I was monitoring the ecu parameters while I had cipher connected. The only thing I did not view was the volts while holding the revs at 2k. I also reset the ecu, and cleared the learned fuel settings.
Were they Fluctuating? When you look at data from oxygen sensors while the vehicle is at operating temp and you apply throttle steady anywhere from 2 to 3k you need to see fluctuation(meaning you should be.seeing voltages of .3v and .7v within 3-5 sec period...if you don't the oxy sensor is either stuck or lazy and is to be discarded or replaced...
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Old 05-08-2012, 11:07 AM   #10
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Default Re: CEL: p1031, P1051, P1148, P1168

I know they were moving but like I said I did pay attention to it' I was numbers and scenarios in my head and zoned out in capturing numbers. Next time I am going to do a data log and post it up, but from what I remember they were moving. The sensor he and I installed were plug and play no splicing was involved. If the volts do move while at idle and reading from 2k-3k, then I think he might need to get an update on the ecu.
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Old 05-09-2012, 07:53 AM   Thread Starter #11
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Default Re: CEL: P1031, P1051, P1148, P1168

@Danski6MT

the codes are still the same: p1031, p1051, p1148, p1168

all the sensors i bought were a direct fit, no splicing. i will get you the voltage numbers by tomorrow. heres the link to the ECU reset that i did. i uploaded it on youtube this time. tell me if it works


and heres the video of the codes right off my scanner

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Old 05-09-2012, 09:19 AM   #12
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Default Re: CEL: P1031, P1051, P1148, P1168

Originally Posted by KZ 259 View Post
@Danski6MT

the codes are still the same: p1031, p1051, p1148, p1168

all the sensors i bought were a direct fit, no splicing. i will get you the voltage numbers by tomorrow. heres the link to the ECU reset that i did. i uploaded it on youtube this time. tell me if it works

CEL reset.mp4 - YouTube

and heres the video of the codes right off my scanner

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mz7ib5BVHlI
The reset was done properly, however I'm certain your front a/f sensors are bad or its the connector, hence the codes for closed loop mode. Do you know anyone in your area that you can swap front a/f sensors with? If you do great if not I will post info later tonight how to probe these at the ecm for the heater inputs.

Personally I doubt it needs a ecm flash. I've changed a/f sensors and if would tow a code for rich/lean.....not heater/closed loop.

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Old 05-09-2012, 03:44 PM   Thread Starter #13
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Default Re: CEL: P1031, P1051, P1148, P1168

i know the front A/F sensor (bank 2) is not bad because me and Luis put the A/F sensor from bank 1 INTO bank 2 to see if the sensor in bank 1 was bad. at that very moment the codes did NOT change so we were sure it was a harness issue, but after i double checked with my own scanner (i think the next day or so), the codes p0037, p0057 CAME back. once i put the new A/F sensor back into bank 2 again, p0037 and p0057 were gone. it must be the harness at this point, but i'm not completely ruling out the senors either. i'll do whatever test you want me to with the sensors just to be extra sure.

i do have a picture of the NEW sensor VS the old one. the two sensors do look physically different. heres the pic:

Click the image to open in full size.

no, i don't have someone with a 6thgen i can borrow their bank 2 A/F sensor.

Originally Posted by Danski6MT View Post
The reset was done properly, however I'm certain your front a/f sensors are bad or its the connector, hence the codes for closed loop mode. Do you know anyone in your area that you can swap front a/f sensors with? If you do great if not I will post info later tonight how to probe these at the ecm for the heater inputs.

Personally I doubt it needs a ecm flash. I've changed a/f sensors and if would tow a code for rich/lean.....not heater/closed loop.

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Old 05-09-2012, 06:59 PM   #14
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Default Re: CEL: P1031, P1051, P1148, P1168

Stay with oem parts when it comes to sensors. I made that mistake with a cam sensor from autozone and ebay.
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Old 05-09-2012, 08:59 PM   #15
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Default Re: CEL: P1031, P1051, P1148, P1168

Originally Posted by KZ 259 View Post
i know the front A/F sensor (bank 2) is not bad because me and Luis put the A/F sensor from bank 1 INTO bank 2 to see if the sensor in bank 1 was bad. at that very moment the codes did NOT change so we were sure it was a harness issue, but after i double checked with my own scanner (i think the next day or so), the codes p0037, p0057 CAME back. once i put the new A/F sensor back into bank 2 again, p0037 and p0057 were gone. it must be the harness at this point, but i'm not completely ruling out the senors either. i'll do whatever test you want me to with the sensors just to be extra sure.

i do have a picture of the NEW sensor VS the old one. the two sensors do look physically different. heres the pic:

Click the image to open in full size.

no, i don't have someone with a 6thgen i can borrow their bank 2 A/F sensor.
Well there are a cople possible theories here about your A/F sensors. You claim they work and my claim is that they have a mulfuncion for a heater or you have a harness/connector issue. Im curious. Lets get to the bottom of this.

Ive seen this a few times where Nissan has a tendency to throw a double code for a sensor. A/F sensors are a good example, another would be cam and crank sensors trigger CEL's by oposite sensors...with this being said even if you switched a sensor and one has a bad heater...the ECM cant compare values and throws a code for both....or in your case the codes were unchanged.

Lets test the sensors first. Unplug and test.If this turns out per specifications then we'll move onto to the harness.
Click the image to open in full size.

Run the resistance/continuity check on the sensors
Click the image to open in full size.

Again, if the above checked out ok that makes your sensors GOOOOOOD. Lets find where between the sensor and ECM the problem lies....
Continuity check...*Disconnect battery drain residual power...and run continuity between sensor plug and ECM.
For some reason the schematics show 2 different pinouts for Bank1 so makes sure you look at the wiring properly on your plug in order to pin the right ECM pins.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Hope this helps buddy. I tried to rotate the images but they are stubborn
Dan
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Old 05-10-2012, 08:11 AM   Thread Starter #16
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Default Re: CEL: P1031, P1051, P1148, P1168

@Danski6MT , @05vk56 , @CXJ Performance

i got the voltage numbers, but i forgot to rev the engine to 3K while checking for the V. i'll get pics of the V while idling at 3k next time. i used both my OBD software on my android as well my OBD2 scanner to check for the V. check it out

Click the image to open in full size.

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Click the image to open in full size.

as you can see, the V in bank 2, sensor 1 is the highest while the rest are all very much the same. any idea what this could mean?

dan, i'm gonna try to test out the sensor for ohms before the weekend, but if i cant, i will definitely test it out during the weekend. i work too much during the week which gives me limited time unfortunately. with the OBD software, i am able to log my trips so i'm gonna start learning how to do that properly and also, i'm gonna compare my voltages with my brothers car and see where that leads too. hey dan, thanks again for all your advice and help man : - )
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Old 05-10-2012, 09:29 AM   #17
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Default Re: CEL: P1031, P1051, P1148, P1168

Originally Posted by KZ 259 View Post
@Danski6MT , @05vk56 , @CXJ Performance

i got the voltage numbers, but i forgot to rev the engine to 3K while checking for the V. i'll get pics of the V while idling at 3k next time. i used both my OBD software on my android as well my OBD2 scanner to check for the V. check it out

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

as you can see, the V in bank 2, sensor 1 is the highest while the rest are all very much the same. any idea what this could mean?

dan, i'm gonna try to test out the sensor for ohms before the weekend, but if i cant, i will definitely test it out during the weekend. i work too much during the week which gives me limited time unfortunately. with the OBD software, i am able to log my trips so i'm gonna start learning how to do that properly and also, i'm gonna compare my voltages with my brothers car and see where that leads too. hey dan, thanks again for all your advice and help man : - )
You are very welcome bro.
However pictures of live data are useless to me because the moment you take a picture it become freeze frame data and you can't diagnose 02 sensor activity with freeze frame. Please take a video.

One thing I did notice is the fact that both front A/f sensors are WAY Below specs. This being B1s1 and b2s1. Even at idle they should not be below 1.15Volts...

Run the test with the video at 3k,engine at operating temp...test the sensors resistance/continuity as I posted above also.

Keep us updated.



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Old 05-10-2012, 09:31 AM   #18
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Default Re: CEL: P1031, P1051, P1148, P1168

Originally Posted by CXJ Performance View Post
Stay with oem parts when it comes to sensors. I made that mistake with a cam sensor from autozone and ebay.
Couldn't agree more!

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Old 05-10-2012, 03:04 PM   Thread Starter #19
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Default Re: CEL: P1031, P1051, P1148, P1168

@Danski6MT

how long should the video be? and how long should i hold it at 3k RPMS?
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Old 05-10-2012, 03:40 PM   #20
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Default Re: CEL: P1031, P1051, P1148, P1168

Did you check your fuse for your 02 sensors?
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Old 05-10-2012, 06:33 PM   #21
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Default Re: CEL: P1031, P1051, P1148, P1168

Originally Posted by KZ 259 View Post
@Danski6MT

how long should the video be? and how long should i hold it at 3k RPMS?
30 sec.

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  Taking the time to dig into a problem, nice!
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Old 05-11-2012, 11:06 AM   #22
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Default Re: CEL: P1031, P1051, P1148, P1168

Originally Posted by jhbsolo View Post
Did you check your fuse for your 02 sensors?
I pulled the fuse and it was good. The first thing I diid.

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  Taking the time to help a fellow member, sweet!
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Old 05-11-2012, 11:07 AM   #23
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Default Re: CEL: P1031, P1051, P1148, P1168

Time to buy that GTR.
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Old 05-11-2012, 03:34 PM   Thread Starter #24
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Default Re: CEL: P1031, P1051, P1148, P1168

Originally Posted by EddyMaxx View Post
Time to buy that GTR.
more like, time to buy that 370Z!!!! *wink, wink*

but realistically speaking, i'm not going to give up on the maxima that easily. i'll consider buying a new motor before getting rid of the car just because of that stupid CEL lol
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Old 05-11-2012, 03:41 PM   Thread Starter #25
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Default Re: CEL: P1031, P1051, P1148, P1168

@Danski6MT, @05vk56, @CXJ Performance

all right, i got the video, two of 'em actually. the first video is when i idle it at 3k RPM and show the voltage values.


the strange thing is, after the rev is over the values are either 0 or just very low compared at regular idle. so i did another video showing that


next up will be the resistance test. Dan, now you only want this test done on the bank 2 A/F sensor right?

that will get done saturday and i will post it up that night. if i don't get to it saturday, definitely sunday. i have to also take the coilovers off my car and put a new oil pan gasket on and re-tighten my brothers cars E - brake all this weekend : - /
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