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Old 05-10-2013, 06:53 AM   Thread Starter #1
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Default Long Travel CV Boots

I see guys getting bashed about CV boot failure for using super low springs. Isn't this the nature of the beast? Why are coil over lover not bashed in this manner, do they prevent this?

Anywho, why not use Long Travel CV Boots

https://www.allprooffroad.com/9504frontsuspension/282
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:21 AM   #2
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Default Re: Long Travel CV Boots

Haven't heard of this. Gonna look into that...
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:26 PM   #3
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Default Re: Long Travel CV Boots

Damn if they work I need some LOL
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Old 05-11-2013, 06:18 AM   Thread Starter #4
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Default Re: Long Travel CV Boots

Originally Posted by Kenny View Post
Damn if they work I need some LOL
Guys originally took the idea from the porshe CV axle boots. Also, ford bronco 2 had a CV type drive line with something simular because it was one short sucker.
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Old 05-11-2013, 06:46 AM   Thread Starter #5
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Default Re: Long Travel CV Boots

Check out these, they are from an ATV

Replacement Boot - RZR XP 900 / Ranger XP Axles : UTV-ATV Axles : Polaris ATV Axles

Gorilla Duty Long Travel Axle - Kawasaki : Long Travel Axles - Gorilla Axle, Inc.
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Old 05-11-2013, 01:39 PM   #6
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Default Re: Long Travel CV Boots


This will not work
Atv axles are half the size of a vehicle axle (Diameter not lenght) look at the OD of that boot.

If you have a problem with the boots tearing then I would recommend you clean your cv boots with soap and water and apply a lubricant that is safe to use with rubber(same grease that goes inside the cv axle) between the bellows on the outside.(this is where the rubbing occurs) when lowered. Then periodically check, reclean and lubricate the bellows.

The real issue when lowered is the stress placed on the actual CV joints inside. This is what makes your axles loose and clicking over time.

A effective solution to solve both cv boot and axle damages is to extend your motor mounts back to the same amount you lowered to get the driveline geometry back close to spec.
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Old 05-11-2013, 03:50 PM   Thread Starter #7
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Default Re: Long Travel CV Boots

Originally Posted by BurntOrangeAppeal View Post
This will not work
Atv axles are half the size of a vehicle axle (Diameter not lenght) look at the OD of that boot.

If you have a problem with the boots tearing then I would recommend you clean your cv boots with soap and water and apply a lubricant that is safe to use with rubber(same grease that goes inside the cv axle) between the bellows on the outside.(this is where the rubbing occurs) when lowered. Then periodically check, reclean and lubricate the bellows.

The real issue when lowered is the stress placed on the actual CV joints inside. This is what makes your axles loose and clicking over time.

A effective solution to solve both cv boot and axle damages is to extend your motor mounts back to the same amount you lowered to get the driveline geometry back close to spec.
Hmm, moving the motor is probaby the most effective. I know those ATV axles aint the same; it's the concept. My point is, lifted 4x4s have experienced these same problems for decades. I'm just trying to rouse the think tanks into action.
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Old 05-11-2013, 04:04 PM   Thread Starter #8
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Default Re: Long Travel CV Boots

I sent an email to the off-road place. At the very least we can get more miles out of our CV boots.
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:56 AM   #9
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Default Re: Long Travel CV Boots

guys, the problem is not the travel distance that cv boots need to extend..as a matter of fact it's the opposite. The mounting of the smaller side of the boot needs to be re-positioned. I already changed my passenger cv boot and that was the result of the lowering springs not even as much aggressive as coilovers. The problem with lowering the car is that the angle of the cv rod changes(where the cv joint level connected to the wheel is higher than the one next to the bearing) which causes the cv boot to contract on the top side of the cv axle all the time). My stock cv boot went out 6 months or less after I installed the springs) I changed the boot(loads of pain to swap) and once I installed it to the factory setting I noticed that the boot was excessively contracted). I ignored it and after 6 months I was changing the struts and I saw that the boot was worn in a striped pattern where it was contracted.The quick fix which I think it's better to be added to the DIY posts in order to prevent the damages to the CV boots is that people should re-position the small side of the cv boots(the bearing side) while they are lowering on either springs or coilovers.(I am talking about the extension bearing of the passenger side of course.)
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Old 06-27-2013, 11:33 PM   #10
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Default Re: Long Travel CV Boots

Originally Posted by emilbadal View Post
guys, the problem is not the travel distance that cv boots need to extend..as a matter of fact it's the opposite. The mounting of the smaller side of the boot needs to be re-positioned. I already changed my passenger cv boot and that was the result of the lowering springs not even as much aggressive as coilovers. The problem with lowering the car is that the angle of the cv rod changes(where the cv joint level connected to the wheel is higher than the one next to the bearing) which causes the cv boot to contract on the top side of the cv axle all the time). My stock cv boot went out 6 months or less after I installed the springs) I changed the boot(loads of pain to swap) and once I installed it to the factory setting I noticed that the boot was excessively contracted). I ignored it and after 6 months I was changing the struts and I saw that the boot was worn in a striped pattern where it was contracted.The quick fix which I think it's better to be added to the DIY posts in order to prevent the damages to the CV boots is that people should re-position the small side of the cv boots(the bearing side) while they are lowering on either springs or coilovers.(I am talking about the extension bearing of the passenger side of course.)
Pictures to aid in what u are talking about? Because I'm having the exact same problems. I just went through 2 sets of axles and I'm on my 3rd this year since lowering my car. I have 2" drop up front, and 1/2" back.
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Old 09-06-2013, 06:45 PM   #11
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Default Re: Long Travel CV Boots

Hello everyone...I'm sorry I couldn't post reply with pictures right away. Here are some pictures that I will try to make my point on completely. unfortunately I am living in apartment buildings and as you may know there are lots of safety regulations associated with these places, I couldn't take the wheel off, but any way, I think these pictures will do the work.

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In this picture I turned the wheels all the way to the left and took the picture from the back of the tire.

Click the image to open in full size.

In this image the numbered parts are:

1- The middle ball bearing in the middle of the passenger side axle
2- CV joint number one...which is the stretchy one...This is the joint that allows the axle stretch when the wheel is bouncing up and down on the road.
3.It's the famous ripping apart CV boot.
A-Large CV boot clamp
B-smaller CV boot clamp
4-I am not definite about this part that what it does...but my guess goes to: it is a balancing weight installed to balance out the axle.

Now if you pay attention to point "B" on your car...there is a gap between the clamp B and the part number 4 in the picture. As you can see I relocated the B side of the boot to right beside part number "4". essentially I stretched the boot to that point and fixated it with the clamp.

Why your stock CV boots rip when you drop the car...because when you drop the front that particular CV boot is compressed at the top of the boot(where I drew the the two way arrow between A and B on the picture) so that the rippled section of the boot is constantly squeezed hard at the top and stretched at the bottom as the car moves more than it is designed to handle and in addition to this tension, there is a huge amount of friction created at the top between the accordion style ripples. If you stretch the point B to where it is in the picture..you just reduce the amount of stretch and squeeze of the boot and also eliminate the friction between the circular ripples, that is why your CV boot will live looonger.

Since we are at it, I want to discuss some other problem that anybody will face dropping more than 1.5" and that's the shimmy you will get after a while driving on lowered car. I want you to pay attention to the photo. See how the axle is bent upward from the CV(number 2)? That is the reason why you have shimmy while driving. ever wondered why accelerating harder than usual eliminates this shimmy? it's because when you accelerate hard the front of the car raises almost an inch or so, and that is when the axle works straight. axles are by nature designed to work best straight or bent downwards not bent upward. I don't know how many of members here changed their axles because of this shimmy thing, if you change the axle, it might work out at first but eventually the shimmy will come back. please do your self a favor and do not change your axles unless they start to clunk and make knocking noise while turning...If they are not making noise while turning, your axles are healthy...don't waste your money.

Last edited by emilbadal; 09-06-2013 at 06:54 PM.
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Old 09-07-2013, 12:16 PM   #12
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Default Re: Long Travel CV Boots

Hmmm, I have been lowered on eibachs since the car had about 50k, it now has 150k and I am still on the original CV axles and boots, I usually check them every time I change to oil and they are still like new.
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Old 09-08-2013, 12:26 AM   #13
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Default Re: Long Travel CV Boots

I hope it doesn't happen to you my friend, cause it's messy and real PITA to swap with new boot
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