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Old 02-06-2011, 01:40 PM   Thread Starter #1
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Default Passenger CV Joint Install

Hey guys, been having a popping noise coming from front passenger side. Checked the cv and the boot is split so it is shot. Does anyone know of or have a good step by step on installing the cv axle? Thanks.
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Old 02-06-2011, 02:54 PM   #2
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Default Re: Passenger CV Joint Install

I'm pretty sure there is a thread around here on it. Can't remember where though, try searching or checking out useful info...
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Old 02-06-2011, 09:48 PM   #3
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Default Re: Passenger CV Joint Install

found this online hope it helps, same for all cars except the socket Im not sure what size it is for 6th gens.
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you..._Nissan_Maxima
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Just spent this weekend replacing the CV joint boot, which is basically the same steps as replacing the joint. - Before you begin, borrow (normally free) a CV Joint Puller/or transaxle puller from a local auto store. It should be the kind with the 5 lb sliding weight. Also, get a clamping tool, if the new boot with clamps are the type that need the clamping tool (about $5). You can save a lot of time by getting a 36mm socket for the wheel nut.
- Put on emergency brake (so car doesn't roll)
- Loosen the wheel lug nuts for the side you are going to replace.
- Jack that wheel up only, and remove tire (you need the other wheel grounded to give you leverage when you remove the main wheel nut).
- Remove wheel nut cotter pin.
- Remove nut cap.
- Remove wheel nut. This is difficult without the right size socket (36mm) because it has about 170lbs of torque. I used a large pair of vice grips and a hammer to remove it no problem. Needed socket on other side.
- Remove the washer.
- Now, jack up the other front side of the car, and put it on a stand. This takes all tension off the suspension which is VERY important.
- Remove the two bolts holding the brake assembly. Use a hanger to hang it from the spring out of the way. There is no reason to disassemble the brake unit unless you want to examine the condition.
- The rotor should slip off.
- Now, unattach the strut. Remove the two bolts holding the steering knuckle to the strut. Again, this takes a lot of force and you need to use a socket (or wrench) on one side to hold the bolt while you use a socket (19mm and 17mm) to take off the nut and bolt.
- Now, rotate the steering knuckle down and away from strut. You may need to loosen the brake line, if it restricts the steering knuckle.
- There should be just enough room to pull the CV joint out of the steering knuckle. If not, try pushing down on the knuckle as you slip the CV joint out.
- Remove old outer boot and clamps (if just replacing outer boot)
- Now the fun part. Attach the CV joint puller (or transaxle puller) to the end of the CV joint axle. Using the sliding weight, thrust it outward quickly while holding the transaxle. This "should" pop the CV joint off the transaxle. If not, keep trying. If you want to simply remove the entire transaxle, don't hold the axle and allow the puller to pull on the entire assembly from the transmission. I only needed to replace the boot, so separating the CV joint from the transaxle was all I needed.
- Clean CV joint using some type of degreaser/cleaner and allow to dry.
- Check for damage of course (i.e. metal filings, broken or heavily scarred bearings or gouges inside joint). If so, you need new joint.
- Repack clean CV joint.
- Put duct tape over threads on transaxle, and slide new boot onto transaxle. (don't forget the clamps as well) and remove duct tape.
- Put the main wheel nut back on the end of the CV Joint assembly, as you will be striking it with a mallet. Then align CV joint to transaxle end (which should have a C-clip at the end). Using some agility and making sure the transaxle, and CV joint are aligned and pressed toward the transmission (i.e. no play), use a heavy mallet and strike the CV joint back onto the transaxle. It took me about 10 strikes before it snapped back into position mainly because I allowed too much play and was not pushing towards the transmission so I was not getting a powerful strike with the mallet. Also, the joint has to slip past the little clip on the end of the transaxle.
- Align the boot into position, position clamps, and clamp it down with a clamping tool or screw-driver depending on the type of clamp.
- Slide newly booted CV joint end into steering knuckle.
- Rotate knuckle up into strut, align two holes and replace screws and nuts.
- Reattach rotor.
- Reattach brake assembly housing.
- Lower other side of car (again to give you friction when the main wheel nut goes back on.
- Reinstall washer and nut. Again, you should torque to specifications which is roughly 170-190 lbs.
- Reattach nut cap.
- Replace cotter pin (use new one if you have one)
- Reattach wheel
- Lower vehicle and test drive
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Old 02-06-2011, 09:56 PM   #4
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Default Re: Passenger CV Joint Install

^^ I think your also forgetting there 3 ( 12mm ) bolts , the carrier bearing as Nissan calls it on the passenger side,
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Old 02-06-2011, 10:00 PM   #5
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Default Re: Passenger CV Joint Install

Originally Posted by NiZMo1o1 View Post
^^ I think your also forgetting there 3 ( 12mm ) bolts , the carrier bearing as Nissan calls it on the passenger side,
I found it online through google search, so didnt really read through it.
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Old 02-06-2011, 10:13 PM   #6
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Default Re: Passenger CV Joint Install

Originally Posted by K-Ryder View Post
I found it online through google search, so didnt really read through it.
no worries, I wasnt going to read all that either LOL....

I guess short version,

Remove wheel , Parking brake and secure it and a jack stand,

Remove the cutter pin ( Save this )

Remove the 32mm bolt with a deep impact sock,

Remove the two lower bolts of the struts (17mm 19mm) wrenchs

Here is what I like to do, I like to put the 32 MM bolt and turn it a few until the face of the CV axle is flush with the 32mm bolt,
ONLY THEN you a HIT it with a metal heavy hammer and hit the center of the shaft to get it loose as soon as its budged , take the 32 but back off and you can swing the whole spindle/rotors to your right , you should be able to pull of the axle from the back of the spindle, ( reason I put the bolt back in is because sometimes you bang that area with a hammer and can bend the spilines, most Axles shop ask for your old one as core charges and well you wouldnt want a bad splines, not to mention it can damage your HUB if you dont put the 32mm nut on it, you have more area to hit at )

your going to need to *fonding* it until you can remove the splines from the hub.

after youve gotten out , your half way there , if you look closer near the old pan , there is a bracket that has 3 BOLTs, (3) 12mm screws bolt into the axles, once you got that out you should be able to pop the axles out and may or maynot leak tranny fluid/gear oil.

when you install the new alxe MAKE SURE VERY IMPORTANT that you hear a CLICK or THUMP, this means the axle is all the way inside, if YOU DONT HEAR IT your not going to have isues. so make sure you check that its all the way in!..

re-bolt the (3) 12mm
now carefully guide the end of the axle back into the hub, make sure you try to get the splines lined up , once your done , cuttor pin and drive the 32mm back in. I cant remember what LB of TQ you need, In this case I would just tighten with an air gun the 32 in.

re tighen the 17/19 mm from the strut.

well back on , woo ha


30 min job
$40-80 part (depending where your buying)
local mechanic shop fee $190
damn I wish I was a mechanic again
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Last edited by NiZMo1o1; 02-06-2011 at 10:15 PM.
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Old 02-07-2011, 02:42 AM   #7
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Default Re: Passenger CV Joint Install

Originally Posted by NiZMo1o1 View Post
no worries, I wasnt going to read all that either LOL....

I guess short version,

Remove wheel , Parking brake and secure it and a jack stand,

Remove the cutter pin ( Save this )

Remove the 32mm bolt with a deep impact sock,

Remove the two lower bolts of the struts (17mm 19mm) wrenchs

Here is what I like to do, I like to put the 32 MM bolt and turn it a few until the face of the CV axle is flush with the 32mm bolt,
ONLY THEN you a HIT it with a metal heavy hammer and hit the center of the shaft to get it loose as soon as its budged , take the 32 but back off and you can swing the whole spindle/rotors to your right , you should be able to pull of the axle from the back of the spindle, ( reason I put the bolt back in is because sometimes you bang that area with a hammer and can bend the spilines, most Axles shop ask for your old one as core charges and well you wouldnt want a bad splines, not to mention it can damage your HUB if you dont put the 32mm nut on it, you have more area to hit at )

your going to need to *fonding* it until you can remove the splines from the hub.

after youve gotten out , your half way there , if you look closer near the old pan , there is a bracket that has 3 BOLTs, (3) 12mm screws bolt into the axles, once you got that out you should be able to pop the axles out and may or maynot leak tranny fluid/gear oil.

when you install the new alxe MAKE SURE VERY IMPORTANT that you hear a CLICK or THUMP, this means the axle is all the way inside, if YOU DONT HEAR IT your not going to have isues. so make sure you check that its all the way in!..

re-bolt the (3) 12mm
now carefully guide the end of the axle back into the hub, make sure you try to get the splines lined up , once your done , cuttor pin and drive the 32mm back in. I cant remember what LB of TQ you need, In this case I would just tighten with an air gun the 32 in.

re tighen the 17/19 mm from the strut.

well back on , woo ha


30 min job
$40-80 part (depending where your buying)
local mechanic shop fee $190
damn I wish I was a mechanic again
Actually use a new cotter pin. Never use the old one. And the 32mm goes on before the cotter pin or else its going to strip the threads inside the 32mm bolt and you'll be in more trouble.
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Last edited by K-Ryder; 02-07-2011 at 02:48 AM.
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Old 02-10-2011, 08:39 PM   Thread Starter #8
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Default Re: Passenger CV Joint Install

Well I was using a 1 1/4" socket that seemed to fit perfect but I couldn't budge that nut, so I found that post that recommended the 36mm and it was way too big. I put pb blaster on it and jumped up and down on a torque wrench connected and it did nothing! Got fed up with it and took it yesterday to a shop I've used alot and they only charged me $79 to do it. I still hear a popping noise coming from that side though. Endlink? or Ball joint?
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Old 02-10-2011, 09:21 PM   #9
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Default Re: Passenger CV Joint Install

Jack up that corner of the car. Grab the wheel at 12 and 6, and try to "wiggle" the wheel/tire. If you have play there, then you need a ball joint.
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Old 02-10-2011, 11:34 PM   #10
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Default Re: Passenger CV Joint Install

Originally Posted by 1hawaii50 View Post
Jack up that corner of the car. Grab the wheel at 12 and 6, and try to "wiggle" the wheel/tire. If you have play there, then you need a ball joint.
To add on grab the wheel 9 to 3 wiggle if any play could be a outer tie rod or inner tie rod.
Also check the lower control arms for any bad bushing, if so replace the lower control arm.
Check your front swaybar bushings, endlinks, etc. Check your whole front end. Inspect it thoroughly. Make sure your bushings and all your steering & suspension components are fine and intact.
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