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Old 09-19-2012, 06:55 PM   Thread Starter #1
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Default New Tensioner New Guide NO START

Ive got a 2005 SL and it wont turn over it'll crank and crank but wont start Ive just replaced the timing chain tensioner and guide as well as new cam sensors left and right. I made sure not to move the chain as to throw off the timing and when it cranks it sounds normal no unusual noise and its not cranking excessively fast like it would if there was a timing issue. I'm at wits end here and it was a real PITA to get the guide and tensioner swapped out im hoping not to have to tear it apart again. It started for a sec before i changed the cam sensors and then again after it had new ones in but it was really brief maybe 1sec at best other than that like i said it just cranks and cranks. Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated .

P.s. there is a slight high pitch whining coming from the back of the motor don't know what it could be but its very faint
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Old 09-19-2012, 07:00 PM   #2
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Default Re: New Tensioner New Guide NO START

I'm no good at fixing car problems, but @BurntOrangeAppeal is a mechanic. He can probably be a big help for you.

Hope you get your problem resolved soon.
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Old 09-19-2012, 08:04 PM   #3
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Default Re: New Tensioner New Guide NO START

Originally Posted by Nduclet View Post
Ive got a 2005 SL and it wont turn over it'll crank and crank but wont start Ive just replaced the timing chain tensioner and guide as well as new cam sensors left and right. I made sure not to move the chain as to throw off the timing and when it cranks it sounds normal no unusual noise and its not cranking excessively fast like it would if there was a timing issue. I'm at wits end here and it was a real PITA to get the guide and tensioner swapped out im hoping not to have to tear it apart again. It started for a sec before i changed the cam sensors and then again after it had new ones in but it was really brief maybe 1sec at best other than that like i said it just cranks and cranks. Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated .

P.s. there is a slight high pitch whining coming from the back of the motor don't know what it could be but its very faint
Welcome home

Eny codes?
Assuming you timed the engine correctly, if you havent you need to reset the ECU and do a Idle Air relearn. Idle air is tied directly to timing.

Another point worth noting is the fact that your VQ35 is interference engine. When the ECU receives a signal that the cams/crank is out of time the ECU will cut fuel as a preventative measure.

When the engine started the first time it was probably on residual fuel in the lines/rails...

This is what I would recommend. Reset the ECU, Idle air relearn. If that things does not fire up, you are out of time most lilkely. Remove valve covers and check timing.

As far as your noise, no idea.....you have to question your work... was it there before? It should not be making a high pitch noise

Its imperative that when you do timing on hydraulic timing chain slack adjusters, before you perform the repair, you drain residual fuel, stalling the motor.(or pulling fuel pump fuse) Then when you are all done, you prime the vehicle by cranking it over and providing the necessary oil pressure to the tensioners, then you can start the engine (insert fuse back in). This procedure prevents timing components from skipping time as the tensioners do not have the oil pressure since oil was all drained out during the repair. IMO This is the most important step. You can set the timing correct, then fire the motor and have a headeache. Ive seen this done and heard this happen to quite a few techs...

You dont need to remove the timing cover in order to recheck timing.
1. allign the Crankshaft pulley with TDC mark
2. Remove both valve covers and check the location of the cams.
(The cams need to be slightly pointed toward each other) as in the picture below (Look at cyl #1 ) or per FSM.
Click the image to open in full size.

Hope this helps. If you need more help shoot.
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:04 AM   Thread Starter #4
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Default Re: New Tensioner New Guide NO START

Originally Posted by BurntOrangeAppeal View Post
Welcome home

Eny codes?
Assuming you timed the engine correctly, if you havent you need to reset the ECU and do a Idle Air relearn. Idle air is tied directly to timing.

Another point worth noting is the fact that your VQ35 is interference engine. When the ECU receives a signal that the cams/crank is out of time the ECU will cut fuel as a preventative measure.

When the engine started the first time it was probably on residual fuel in the lines/rails...

This is what I would recommend. Reset the ECU, Idle air relearn. If that things does not fire up, you are out of time most lilkely. Remove valve covers and check timing.

As far as your noise, no idea.....you have to question your work... was it there before? It should not be making a high pitch noise

Its imperative that when you do timing on hydraulic timing chain slack adjusters, before you perform the repair, you drain residual fuel, stalling the motor.(or pulling fuel pump fuse) Then when you are all done, you prime the vehicle by cranking it over and providing the necessary oil pressure to the tensioners, then you can start the engine (insert fuse back in). This procedure prevents timing components from skipping time as the tensioners do not have the oil pressure since oil was all drained out during the repair. IMO This is the most important step. You can set the timing correct, then fire the motor and have a headeache. Ive seen this done and heard this happen to quite a few techs...

You dont need to remove the timing cover in order to recheck timing.
1. allign the Crankshaft pulley with TDC mark
2. Remove both valve covers and check the location of the cams.
(The cams need to be slightly pointed toward each other) as in the picture below (Look at cyl #1 ) or per FSM.
Click the image to open in full size.

Hope this helps. If you need more help shoot.
Assuming its the timing would it have to be torn apart again to fix it?
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:12 AM   #5
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Default Re: New Tensioner New Guide NO START

Originally Posted by Nduclet View Post
Assuming its the timing would it have to be torn apart again to fix it?
:thumbup:
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Old 09-20-2012, 11:47 AM   #6
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Default Re: New Tensioner New Guide NO START

How hard is this job because I need to do it .
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:41 PM   #7
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Default Re: New Tensioner New Guide NO START

Originally Posted by smittybizzle View Post
How hard is this job because I need to do it .
I'm certain you shouldn't have a problem Smitty.
PATIENCE, double check timing, prime oiling system, and follow FSM. Oh, and make sure you Meticulosly clean the timing cover and block mating surfaces as well as using good quality RTV to prevent oil leaks down the road.
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:50 PM   #8
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Default Re: New Tensioner New Guide NO START

Originally Posted by BurntOrangeAppeal View Post
I'm certain you shouldn't have a problem Smitty.
PATIENCE, double check timing, prime oiling system, and follow FSM. Oh, and make sure you Meticulosly clean the timing cover and block mating surfaces as well as using good quality RTV to prevent oil leaks down the road.
you need to be in Dallas dude... i need the timing chain tensioner and guide done on my car..... courtesy nissan quoted me almost $3000
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:54 PM   #9
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Default Re: New Tensioner New Guide NO START

Just a thought - have you done anything with your keys recently? The Max won't start without the transponder chip, it just cranks and cranks. Probably not the issue, but just a thought.
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Old 09-20-2012, 02:09 PM   #10
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Default Re: New Tensioner New Guide NO START

Originally Posted by Nismo4Life07 View Post


you need to be in Dallas dude... i need the timing chain tensioner and guide done on my car..... courtesy nissan quoted me almost $3000
Wow, all the way to the bank
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Old 09-20-2012, 02:29 PM   #11
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Default Re: New Tensioner New Guide NO START

Originally Posted by BurntOrangeAppeal View Post
Wow, all the way to the bank
tell me about it!
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Old 09-20-2012, 02:57 PM   #12
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Default Re: New Tensioner New Guide NO START

That is to darn much man smh . I wish they would man up and fix these cars . But we all know that will not happen .
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Old 09-20-2012, 03:26 PM   #13
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Default Re: New Tensioner New Guide NO START

Originally Posted by smittybizzle View Post
That is to darn much man smh . I wish they would man up and fix these cars . But we all know that will not happen .
Ill go a bit of topic, but one day I was pondering why this is so common on Maximas, and this is just my theory.... the only thing I can think about it the fact that we are under FWD platform and cooling is the culprit. To be more specific its related to heat.

For the most part the same VQ35 is used in other platforms(RWD) and no issues of this magnitude. Look at the "g" and the "z"
I think especially on the 6th gen, if you look at the bottom of the front fascia, there is almost no provisions for airflow. sure there is a oil cooler, but that contraption IMO is not efficient as oil at beat is equal to coolant temps....

I think Nissan realized it and did a makeover of the front fascia, not just for aesthetics but also to provide more cooling...of course my theory is debatable as that could be also related to CVT cooling.

The fact is that this issue is less evident on 6.5 gen, even on vehicles with mileage as high as the 6 gen. Those that do have issues with timing components in their 6.5 gets might be related to poor maintenance habbits....

As oil gets this hot, it naturally thins out, pressure drops and the slack adjusts take a beating( premAture wear)
I think I might want to experiment running an oil cooler when I do the 6.5 bumper swap.

Back to work. I'm done dropping a deuce.
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Old 09-20-2012, 03:32 PM   #14
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Default Re: New Tensioner New Guide NO START

Originally Posted by Nismo4Life07 View Post


you need to be in Dallas dude... i need the timing chain tensioner and guide done on my car..... courtesy nissan quoted me almost $3000
It's $1400 here at the dealer. And they say CA is expensive lol
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Old 09-20-2012, 04:01 PM   #15
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Default Re: New Tensioner New Guide NO START

Originally Posted by BurntOrangeAppeal View Post
Ill go a bit of topic, but one day I was pondering why this is so common on Maximas, and this is just my theory.... the only thing I can think about it the fact that we are under FWD platform and cooling is the culprit. To be more specific its related to heat.

For the most part the same VQ35 is used in other platforms(RWD) and no issues of this magnitude. Look at the "g" and the "z"
I think especially on the 6th gen, if you look at the bottom of the front fascia, there is almost no provisions for airflow. sure there is a oil cooler, but that contraption IMO is not efficient as oil at beat is equal to coolant temps....

I think Nissan realized it and did a makeover of the front fascia, not just for aesthetics but also to provide more cooling...of course my theory is debatable as that could be also related to CVT cooling.

The fact is that this issue is less evident on 6.5 gen, even on vehicles with mileage as high as the 6 gen. Those that do have issues with timing components in their 6.5 gets might be related to poor maintenance habbits....

As oil gets this hot, it naturally thins out, pressure drops and the slack adjusts take a beating( premAture wear)
I think I might want to experiment running an oil cooler when I do the 6.5 bumper swap.

Back to work. I'm done dropping a deuce.
well mine is a 6.5 and im at 88k. i do regular oil changes and use mobil 1 synthetic. i did my regular 60k service. i'd like to think i have taken care of my car... did i miss something to make the problem happen??
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Old 09-20-2012, 04:46 PM   #16
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Default Re: New Tensioner New Guide NO START

Originally Posted by Nismo4Life07 View Post


well mine is a 6.5 and im at 88k. i do regular oil changes and use mobil 1 synthetic. i did my regular 60k service. i'd like to think i have taken care of my car... did i miss something to make the problem happen??


Originally Posted by BurntOrangeAppeal View Post

The fact is that this issue is less evident on 6.5 gen, even on vehicles with mileage as high as the 6 gen. Those that do have issues with timing components in their 6.5 gets might be related to poor maintenance habbits....
Originally Posted by Nismo4Life07 View Post


well mine is a 6.5 and im at 88k. i do regular oil changes and use mobil 1 synthetic. i did my regular 60k service. i'd like to think i have taken care of my car... did i miss something to make the problem happen??
Synthethic runs thin to begin with...Its got a great thermal breaKdown capabilities but does rn thin....
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Old 09-20-2012, 04:51 PM   #17
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Default Re: New Tensioner New Guide NO START

would you reccommend doing the next oil change with regular 5w-30 oil?
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:07 PM   #18
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Default Re: New Tensioner New Guide NO START

Originally Posted by Nismo4Life07 View Post
would you reccommend doing the next oil change with regular 5w-30 oil?
I would. If you are doing your maintance as necessary, and feel like you would like to be extra preventative, drop the oil change frequency down to whatever you feel like and use conventional. I do that in all my cars. but I change my oil every 2000miles, since it takes me 10 extra minutes after work..
IMO, the most important thing is frequency, especialy using conventional oils.
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:25 PM   #19
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Default Re: New Tensioner New Guide NO START

Maybe I'll do that. Conventional oil every 2k.

Any oil preference? And use a stock oil filter?
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:16 PM   #20
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Default Re: New Tensioner New Guide NO START

Originally Posted by Nismo4Life07 View Post
Maybe I'll do that. Conventional oil every 2k.

Any oil preference? And use a stock oil filter?
Yeah, I use a Nissan filters (Japanese Orgin) not Chinese ones. Although Im in trouble as my source just ran out. As far as oil, pick a brand. I use whatever is on sale
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Old 09-20-2012, 10:35 PM   #21
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Default Re: New Tensioner New Guide NO START

That is what I do but at 3k miles . Nissan filter .
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Old 09-20-2012, 11:52 PM   #22
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Default Re: New Tensioner New Guide NO START

Do u have picture of Nissan filter in Japanese orgin?
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Old 09-21-2012, 12:08 AM   #23
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Default Re: New Tensioner New Guide NO START

How the hell did we get this far off topic??

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Old 09-21-2012, 07:00 PM   #24
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Default Re: New Tensioner New Guide NO START

Was the timing off ?
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Old 09-23-2012, 03:58 PM   Thread Starter #25
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Default Re: New Tensioner New Guide NO START

Originally Posted by BurntOrangeAppeal View Post
Welcome home

Eny codes?
Assuming you timed the engine correctly, if you havent you need to reset the ECU and do a Idle Air relearn. Idle air is tied directly to timing.

Another point worth noting is the fact that your VQ35 is interference engine. When the ECU receives a signal that the cams/crank is out of time the ECU will cut fuel as a preventative measure.

When the engine started the first time it was probably on residual fuel in the lines/rails...

This is what I would recommend. Reset the ECU, Idle air relearn. If that things does not fire up, you are out of time most lilkely. Remove valve covers and check timing.

As far as your noise, no idea.....you have to question your work... was it there before? It should not be making a high pitch noise

Its imperative that when you do timing on hydraulic timing chain slack adjusters, before you perform the repair, you drain residual fuel, stalling the motor.(or pulling fuel pump fuse) Then when you are all done, you prime the vehicle by cranking it over and providing the necessary oil pressure to the tensioners, then you can start the engine (insert fuse back in). This procedure prevents timing components from skipping time as the tensioners do not have the oil pressure since oil was all drained out during the repair. IMO This is the most important step. You can set the timing correct, then fire the motor and have a headeache. Ive seen this done and heard this happen to quite a few techs...

You dont need to remove the timing cover in order to recheck timing.
1. allign the Crankshaft pulley with TDC mark
2. Remove both valve covers and check the location of the cams.
(The cams need to be slightly pointed toward each other) as in the picture below (Look at cyl #1 ) or per FSM.
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Hope this helps. If you need more help shoot.
Ok so im gonna tear it all apart again everything leads me to timing, removing the valve covers seems just as hard so im gonna just remove the front cover again, but how do i set it back to the correct timing i found the FSM online but it is pretty confusing
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