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Old 06-29-2011, 03:04 AM   Thread Starter #1
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Default Ignition Coil Keeps Burning

Since I bought this car,have changed close to 15 ignition coil and we noticed the negative wire that leads to transmission was cut,we replaced it and the brain box still destroy thee brain box,and I don't know what to do it is really frustrating me,we are trying to get a new computer which is the brain box to ssee if it would be back to normal,pls can anyone explain if they have any issue with this
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Old 06-29-2011, 01:56 PM   #2
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Default Re: Ignition Coil Keeps Burning

add some more info to that year,milage,at or mt.
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Old 06-29-2011, 02:00 PM   #3
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Default Re: Ignition Coil Keeps Burning

That's the same problem Im having with my car, it's still at the shop now
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Old 06-29-2011, 03:17 PM   #4
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Default Re: Ignition Coil Keeps Burning

First what happen prior before you started replacing the Coil-on Packs ?

because it sounds like A) you may have a power stero system
or B) over charged the system

These Coil-on plugs see 12 volts, anything more than 12 Volts they will fry.

you will see spikes if your alternator is overcharged , the alternator regualtes the system , this could be also cause by a high power stero system.

Another thing is the GROUNDS ! can stress how grounds could also lead to them burning up,

But if the ECU and your plugs are burning out at the same time, you have an issue in the HARNESS itself, that alone to get diagnose is big $$.

This is why I ask what did you DO before this happen ? how many miles ? what kind of MODS did/do you have. If you have a high amperage stero system ?

Did you install a radio / head unit and cross wires ??

Even if the ground underneath the battery trey was broken or replace, this wouldnt cause the whole ECU to short out.

Did you use the right size ground cable ?

my suggestion is first , get a OHM meter and check the Battery/ Alternator and see whats its reading, 12.1- 14 is charging,
if your seeing anything ABOVE 15 , then something has totally gone wrong in the system.

at the time you need to check the main cables that lead from the battery/alterator/starter to see if the cable has a cut/short/ or its grounding onto the body or making contact to ground.

if the alterantor and battery shows within the same #s and its charging.

your next thing is to trace the coil-pack harness , all 6 of them needs to be check and follow the harness until it meets the main harness, see if any of the wire is broken.

we get so much heat that the wires get brittle and break insides, esp check the ends of the clips where they plug into the coil-on packs.

make sure when you installing the ECU that the Postive terminal is off the battery.

My next question is , are you troubleshooting it YOURSELF ? or a mechanic ? dealership ?

if your DIY , do you have experenice in cars ? ( just a simple question cause I know people get defensive when ask )

To me , it sounds like you've short the main harness, for the Coil Pack AND ECU to short out, thats pretty Big issue
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Old 07-01-2011, 04:12 AM   #5
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Default Re: Ignition Coil Keeps Burning

^^^Wow, awesome info Alan.
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Old 09-13-2011, 04:44 PM   #6
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Default Re: Ignition Coil Keeps Burning

I am working on the same problem. It is my 1st post, so I apologize if I commit any fouls.

Everyone likes a back story (I think) so here it is -

My wife's friend had breakdown in OK while driving across country. Ended up at dealer, $600 and some coil packs later she took off, running smooth. Less than 30 minutes later, car dies again in fast moving traffic. Car gets towed back, dealer puts 5 of their best on it, three hours later they Dx a bad ECU. The good news is that the lead on this repair has the hots for the friend, so he offers a great deal: Parts at cost, minimal labor. New estimate = $1,200. He later calls and asked her out for drinks, she declines due to his wedding ring. Fed up with it after just putting in a transmission, She abandons the car at the dealer and my wife gets her and she flies rest of the way from DFW.

I get the car and tow it down to Dallas area.

The Plan: Find a used ECU, install it, have dealer program.

Why my plan is failing: I have not been able to identify what is the correct ECU to buy, the numbers on the ECU seem to be useless, as is the dealer part number I got from local dealer. I have not quite given up but thought backup plans are in order.

Not to question the skills of the "5 best guys" the dealer offered up, I thought maybe I should backtrack the diagnosis and confirm what they found.

I found the FSM online, (you tech guys rock!), spent some time picking it apart and got to work. I left battery terminal loose to allow disconnecting to plug and unplug ECU quick, all voltages were checked with key in the RUN position.

I checked the voltages at each coil pack connector, red wire has 12v all around, black wire has 0V and good ground continuity, and the two color wires had 2.4V on #2, 0.48 on #4, #5 & #6. Not good. ECU might be bad! I cranked the engine and saw voltages fluctuate on 4, 5, 6 and steady state on #2. I didn't check #1 and #3 because intake is still in place. Fluctuating voltages are good, but signal voltage is 0.4 at high signal, so each one is continuously firing the coil pack and melting them down.

I also checked the ECU to make sure it had proper voltage, It had 12V on cable at pins 119, 120 and 7v at pin 109. I went back to 109 source, and check at the fuse panel, finding 12V. I replaced the same fuse, checked 109 again, now 12V, probably bad ground when I first checked. I checked the harness feeding the signal to the coil packs had no return voltage from a short, with no grounds. I plugged in power cable to ECU, and found voltages on pins 60, 61, 62, 79, 80 and 81, similar to voltages I found at the coil pack connector.

The ECU is trash, so I pried it open being careful to cut away the silicone sealant so I didn't have to pry too much. I traced back the 61 etc pins and found one of two identical chips: L9302-AD.

My research indicates these are drivers, and I suspect one drives the signals to fire the coil packs and one drives the injectors. Research online doesn't really provide for a quick purchase option but they seem to run $6-$20. Mouser is doing a quote request for me now to see if I can buy these cheaply.

New Plan: Buy chips and solder onto ECU and save tons of cash with no programming.

New Plan B: Continue with trying to find a used ECU and having dealer program.

Does anyone out there have advice on how to decipher the ECU numbers?

Mine are BX A56-V51 ZR6 3303
Dealer Part # 23710-84017

Thanks!
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Old 09-13-2011, 07:50 PM   #7
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Default Re: Ignition Coil Keeps Burning

Oh, forgot info on above vehicle:
2004 Maxima, 3.5L, 5 speed auto, 165k

Regards!
Jurry
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:00 PM   #8
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Default Re: Ignition Coil Keeps Burning

Jurry ,

I applaud you , as I was reading injector drivers was what was on my mind, as I kept reading , I cant believe you open up the ECU and have trace the issue.

I do know that the first letters BX is the important when trying to find a replacement ECU.

I do not know how iffy's these ECU if you solder a new chip, Im sure its just like how the older Nissan ECU (jim wolf chips )

I'm sure buying 2 chips will solve this issue and be cheaper than finding a ECU, hopefully you don't need to reprogram.
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Old 09-14-2011, 02:13 AM   #9
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Default Re: Ignition Coil Keeps Burning

Originally Posted by NiZMo1o1 View Post
Jurry ,

I applaud you , as I was reading injector drivers was what was on my mind, as I kept reading , I cant believe you open up the ECU and have trace the issue.

I do know that the first letters BX is the important when trying to find a replacement ECU.

I do not know how iffy's these ECU if you solder a new chip, Im sure its just like how the older Nissan ECU (jim wolf chips )

I'm sure buying 2 chips will solve this issue and be cheaper than finding a ECU, hopefully you don't need to reprogram.
Thanks,
If I can find these drivers I'll order two so I have one for the injectors as well if I need it, or a backup to the coil pack drivers if that fixes the problem.

At some point I expect to locate a data sheet on th L5302-AD chip, it will also show how the surface mount capacitors around this chip relate to driver function. Caps commonly fail, except the "can" style caps on this board all look good so I left them alone, so I want to make sure a failed capacitor didn't take out the driver, I'm not sure it would but don't know. Something killed this driver, unless it is a weak link, anybody out there have any insight?

I also did a little looking around on Ebay, on some ECU reman sites, and I called a dismantled I've used for a couple engines. It seems that if I get any ECU for 3.5L, A/T, 5 speed, it should reflash without a problem for my application. I'll post my progress as it develops.
Jurry
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Old 09-22-2011, 05:13 PM   #10
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Default Re: Ignition Coil Keeps Burning

Update,

I spoke with two dealers, no one could tell me if what the numbers on the ECU mean, they couldn't give me any different options of the ECU numbers that would work for my car and essentially said that the numbers on the ECU were from the manufacturer of the ECU, and could mean literally anything, there is no known interpretation for them and different numbers could mean something as simple as a different case the board is housed in. They were able to tell me this car has no adaptive cruise (at least that is what they think because they didn't know what adaptive cruise was), no traction control, but does have ABS and Dynamic Control (which overrides driver input when car gets squirrely or sideways). I have found many ECU's on Ebay, but I can only match the A56-V51 ZR6 part of the number, all the others have either a different prefix (BX) and the last 4 don't match (3303).

So I found a guy in OK who will ship me one that doesn't match but will have the same drivers, $60 total. I went with the cheapest option because this is a shot in the dark and I might just be throwing money away on this effort. I thought about finding one with "close" numbers and harvesting the driver if it didn't program, but it would still take a towed trip to the dealer and $125 in programming fees to find out "close" wasn't good enough. $60 for two drivers on a board is about what I would pay for two virgin drivers plus shipping, and I can't find any of those that are straightforward to buy. I'm going to harvest the driver and move it over to my board, and I'll let you all know how that goes down. If it fails I'll continue looking for a matching numbers ECU or drop the $750 on a dealer part.

I'll take some pics of the driver swap if anyone is interested.

Jurry
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Old 09-22-2011, 07:25 PM   #11
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Default Re: Ignition Coil Keeps Burning

Jurry,

Sounds like you have a good handle on this. This is some great info!
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Old 09-29-2011, 03:23 PM   #12
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Default Re: Ignition Coil Keeps Burning

Update:
Still no luck finding a perfect numbers matching ECU after looking for too many hours spent on the effort. I finally just bought the cheapest mismatched ECU I could find, $60 shipped.

I attempted to desolder one of the drivers and destroyed it in the process, so I cobbled up some fittings to neck down my heat gun and on the high setting it melts the solder and I simply plucked the driver off the board. I had screwed around for a half an hour with my soldering iron, the heat gun did the trick in two minutes, which includes removing 4 other chips for practice before I did the one chip I needed.

I need to pick up some flux to ensure a good result when I flow this chip to my board, so I'll post the end result hopefully in a day or two. I bought 6 off-brand coil packs on EBay with a one year warranty and they will be here on Saturday, so maybe a test run this weekend if all goes well.
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Old 09-29-2011, 06:09 PM   #13
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Default Re: Ignition Coil Keeps Burning

Originally Posted by jvana View Post
Update:
Still no luck finding a perfect numbers matching ECU after looking for too many hours spent on the effort. I finally just bought the cheapest mismatched ECU I could find, $60 shipped.

I attempted to desolder one of the drivers and destroyed it in the process, so I cobbled up some fittings to neck down my heat gun and on the high setting it melts the solder and I simply plucked the driver off the board. I had screwed around for a half an hour with my soldering iron, the heat gun did the trick in two minutes, which includes removing 4 other chips for practice before I did the one chip I needed.

I need to pick up some flux to ensure a good result when I flow this chip to my board, so I'll post the end result hopefully in a day or two. I bought 6 off-brand coil packs on EBay with a one year warranty and they will be here on Saturday, so maybe a test run this weekend if all goes well.
You can get a "decent" hot air reflow station on Amazon for around $100-$150. How did you originally try to remove the chip? Soldering iron and braid?
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Old 10-07-2011, 06:07 AM   #14
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Default Re: Ignition Coil Keeps Burning

Update.

I had tried to desolder with braid, but the chip itself is soldered to the board as well, I couldn't generate enough heat with 40W iron and in an attempt to put upward pressure on it the chip broke. I ended up making my own desoldering gun with a heat gun that I stuck some reducers and fittings on to end up with a 1/4" tube that blew hot air. It took me about a 20 sec to get the driver off after I practiced on a few other SMC's.

So the long of the short is that I soldered the new chip in and it it still won't start. I looked for solder bridges but need to get some better magnification to really check it out. I checked the voltage at the coil packs and they all show zero with engine off, and spike some unknown voltage when cranking. I can't tell if it is the proper signal because I am using a Fluke and really need a digital probe or oscilloscope. I'm busy at work for the next week or so, but I think I'm going to throw together a quick PC based oscilloscope so I can see what is going on. I found a factory parts supplier that quoted $780 or something for a new ECU, I might just need to buy it and be done with this.
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Old 12-01-2011, 03:31 PM   #15
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Default Re: Ignition Coil Keeps Burning

This is the end of the saga. I found a dealer that would sell the ECU for $780 and bit the bullet and bought it. I pulled the intake to replace the back coil pack (what a PITA just to change coils / plugs) threw in the new ECU (virgin so it picks up security code from the BCU), went through the quick on/off ignition sequence to set key code and throttle position and it started roughly with ton of white smoke with fuel smell....? Tried to drive and it crawled along, after a WTF moment a realized it was throttle body connector and sure enough it was fully seated. Drove great after I corrected that, has a service engine light on but runs good, so I'll take it in for reprogramming in a week or two when things slow down.

BTW, does anyone have any of the little plastic work wheel gears for the front seat slide mechanism? I'll search the posts for a feed on he seats but thought I'd ask.

Regards!
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Old 12-01-2011, 03:41 PM   #16
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Default Re: Ignition Coil Keeps Burning

these ECU are real effy , Nissan has always done this even in the past ECU (Pre CAN BUS)

glad you sorted it out , not sure about the seats tho
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Old 12-01-2011, 03:43 PM   #17
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Default Re: Ignition Coil Keeps Burning

I don't know how I missed this thread. Glad car is fine now.

What is your ECU part number?
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Old 07-30-2014, 03:36 PM   #18
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Default Re: Ignition Coil Keeps Burning

Might have to look into this myself now..
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Old 07-30-2014, 06:30 PM   #19
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Default Re: Ignition Coil Keeps Burning

Gee , that would be big money mate !
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