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-   -   04-08: How to Replace and Install New Spark Plugs (http://my6thgen.org/f107/how-replace-install-new-spark-plugs-267/)

EddyMaxx 02-04-2010 07:26 PM

How to Replace and Install New Spark Plugs
 
Courtesy of TEQ-NIQ

Changing the spark plugs is not something you should have to do until around 100,000 miles. The stock plugs are platinum tipped and should last a very long time. Replacement of the plugs is something that Nissan recommends you "see your dealer" to do. The reason is that in order to replace the 3 plugs in the rear cylinder bank, the intake manifold upper and lower collectors have to be completely removed from the vehicle. To do this requires skill beyond the average Sunday mechanic, since there are many vacuum, electrical and coolant lines that have to come off in order to perform the job.


My car had slightly over 18,000 miles on it when I did the job, and it did not really need new plugs. The reason I ended up doing this job was because I strongly suspected one or more of my ignition coils were faulty, and try as I might I could not get Nissan to admit the problem or come up with a solution. I called Courtesy Nissan, ordered a set of ignition coils and plugs, and set about doing the job myself. I replaced all 6 ignition coils, and doing the spark plugs as well was simply for the sake of completeness.

I documented the entire process with pictures and text so that if there is anyone out there who wants to do the same, perhaps they will not be quite as intimidated as if they were going in cold. The job is not simple, and took me about 3.5 hours, but I did take a lunch break, and was also documenting the process with a digital camera.

Cost of the job was also not cheap - a set of 6 ignition coils from Courtesy Nissan cost me $333.48. The required gasket is another $18.40. The plugs themselves will run you $11.00 each. If all you really need to do is change your plugs, obviously you don't need to buy coils, so then all you would need would be 6 plugs and the gasket. Do the job yourself and you will save quite a fortune in labor, as this job performed by the dealer would be many hundreds of dollars.

Here is the nice clean engine bay before going in with the chainsaw. If you have a front strut brace, as I did, it is probably not necessary to remove it, but I did simply to make it a little easier to lift the collector out. It only takes a minute or two anyway.

Photos are from a 3.5 5thgen but the procedure is the same for 6thgens.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...a/01-Start.jpg

This pic still shows the strut brace in place (I removed it later). First step is to remove the 4 allen bolts securing the engine cover, and take it off.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...nmaxima/02.jpg

A view near the firewall. The test is if you can reach and loosen these two bolts then you can do the rest of the job. It requires a 12mm socket with a long handle.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...axima/03-1.jpg

My method of doing this job will show you how it can be done without disconnecting so many vacuum lines, as I have seen others do. All you need to do is take a few parts off first so you can reach the bolts that attach the collector to the engine. Leave the electrical connector off, but put the valve back on.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...nmaxima/04.jpg

Same idea with the vacuum tank. Take it off only so you can reach the attachment bolts. Then put it, and the VIAS control solenoid valve back on.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...nmaxima/05.jpg

Once you get these 3 bolts, and 2 nuts off, you can go ahead and put the VIAS and vacuum tanks back on the collector.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...nmaxima/06.jpg

Don't take these off! No need to. You'll see why later.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...nmaxima/07.jpg

Two vacuum lines which need to come off. Slide the compression clamp down, and twist the hose off. Easy.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...nmaxima/08.jpg

These electrical connectors need to be popped off. Be careful you don't break them.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...maxima/08b.jpg

You also have to release and then slide the lower half off their brass fitting, or you won't be able to lift the collector assembly off

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...xima/08c-1.jpg

Again, another picture before going in with the chainsaw.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...xima/09a-1.jpg

Loosen the screw holding the rubber connector to the intake. Leave the other side alone. It will stay.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...maxima/09b.jpg

EddyMaxx 02-04-2010 07:26 PM

Continued...

Unplug your "drive by wire" electrical connector, for the electronic throttle.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...nmaxima/09.jpg

Pop out the two plastic harness holders.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...nmaxima/10.jpg

Get the wire out of the way.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...axima/11-1.jpg

Remove this plug, take the 10mm bolt out, then put the plug back in.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...axima/12-1.jpg

Make room.....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...axima/13-1.jpg

This was a tough picture to take. A little trick here - disconnect hoses 1 and 2 right at the area pointed to by the yellow line. Be prepared for a little bit of coolant to spill out when you disconnect hose #2.

Important - disconnect hose #3, not where you see the yellow line here, but at the other end of the hose. You will never in a million years reach this hose where the arrow is pointing, but you can reach it at the other end.

Slide the compression clamps down before you try to take these hoses off.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...axima/14-1.jpg

Just another view at lines #1 and #2.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...nesInFront.jpg

Removing hose #1.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...axima/16-1.jpg

After all of the hoses and electrical connectors come off, you can lift the entire intake collector assembly up and out. This is what the engine bay looks like with the collector assembly off.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...nmaxima/17.jpg

Another view of the engine bay.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...axima/18-1.jpg

The collector assembly is rather large, but it is actually very light. I took the opportunity to clean mine up with some Gumout intake cleaner. Note that hose #3 is still attached to the collector!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...nmaxima/19.jpg

Note how all of the assemblies remain attached when the collector comes off.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...nmaxima/20.jpg

Here is a side view.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...nmaxima/21.jpg

The procedure to remove the coils is the same for the front bank as it is for the rear. Just take the 10mm bolt out, unplug the connector and pull it right out.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...nmaxima/22.jpg

This is what one coil looks like.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...nmaxima/23.jpg

Use a spark plug wrench to remove each plug.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...nmaxima/24.jpg

Nissan recommends you change this gasket any time the collector comes off. It is an expensive gasket, but why risk it? Buy a new one.

I do not show re-assembly here, but just follow these steps in reverse order. I hope I have de-mystified this process a little bit, and that you might be inspired to do this job yourself when the time comes. Good Luck, and you can do it.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...nmaxima/25.jpg




I3LAZEN 02-05-2010 09:44 AM

Nice writeup! Ill take my shit 2 harjit 2 get done tho lol

K-Ryder 02-05-2010 10:03 AM

When I eventually get a 3.5 I'll use this.

CXJ Performance 03-10-2010 09:25 AM

going under the knife this weekend. thanks for the write up

CXJ Performance 03-13-2010 12:46 PM

im doing this right now and theres a big difference than what the write up calls for. like theres way more shit to remove plus are manifold sit closer to the fire wall than the 5thgens do. i removed the old spark plug from cyclinder 1 and my baby was in need more than i knew. i measured .080 on the first plug. our spark plug gap calls for .044 for stock replacement. i need more beer for this job.lol

EddyMaxx 03-13-2010 01:28 PM

These write-ups aren't supposed to be down to the wire bro. People post it up to show the difficultly level of whats involved. Its more of a reference for those might want to tackle it by themselves. It helps understand things more than following the exact order on how to do everything.

durell_usmc 03-13-2010 02:19 PM

worked for me, I had no issues when changing my plugs, and I used this write up also.

CXJ Performance 03-13-2010 03:06 PM

it did help in most spots and i know what you mean eddy.well shes all done and purrring like a kitten

CXJ Performance 03-14-2010 01:24 PM

http://my6thgen.org/f107/how-remove-upper-intake-manifold-240/

if anyone uses this thread for removing a 6thgen manifold along with this sticky it will go smoother

thealliance43 06-16-2010 09:13 PM

i'm having a problem with the rear spark plugs... i can't find the 12mm screws in the back... anyone have any suggestions??? i checked the write up and it helped but not really for the rear... i guess tomorrow's another day

bdmaxima 06-16-2010 11:12 PM

how do you know of a ignition coil is bad?

CXJ Performance 06-17-2010 10:56 AM

those rear bolts are at the bottom of the manifold behind it. it a real bitch to get at. you'll have to feel for them while being near the drives side wheel to reach them. i had a real hard time doing those

Precision P.R Max 07 06-17-2010 07:25 PM

Glad my max has only 30,000 miles and running smooth gotta long way to before I have to do plug change

thealliance43 06-24-2010 10:02 AM

cory can u get me some good pix of where these bolts are? i'm gettin sooo aggervated that i can't do this! and i don't want to be spendin 200-300$ to get this done over two bolts

KZ 259 08-11-2010 09:59 AM

yo.......im about to do this job this weekend and so far.....all of the mentioned prices are seriously off.....the coils are, according to courtesy nissan, are $95.13 and the gasket is $27.....damn im hating this already.

SHIFT_nismo 09-04-2010 11:17 PM

thanks for the writeup eddy.. i looked at the rear spark plug location and was like.. wtf? i have to remove this?! ::search writeup::

masburgmax_07 10-17-2010 05:03 AM

I just did this, the write up was a big help. Why Nissan would make this such a pain in the ass is beyond me.

NiZMo1o1 11-18-2010 07:40 PM

Re: How to Replace and Install New Spark Plugs
 
I like to add this ,

http://www.verrill.com/moto/sellingg...colorchart.htm

its a link to plug color chart !

For those that use NGK , heres a chart of a break down to read them..

dont mind the Mirage chart..
http://tech.mirage-performance.com/sparkplugs.html

Thrill 04-15-2011 11:29 AM

Re: How to Replace and Install New Spark Plugs
 
I know this is a little old but had to comment on the great write up. I usually just start turning wrenches but in this case glad I looked. Curious how long this takes. Looks like a job I should start in the AM. I have 102,000 on the plugs and see the recommened change is at 105,000. I saw another poster that stated the originals will go 200K. Not sure I would wait that long but don't want to replace 50k before its needed either considering the amount of labor involved.

conblac 04-16-2011 08:12 PM

Re: How to Replace and Install New Spark Plugs
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Thrill (Post 155462)
I know this is a little old but had to comment on the great write up. I usually just start turning wrenches but in this case glad I looked. Curious how long this takes. Looks like a job I should start in the AM. I have 102,000 on the plugs and see the recommened change is at 105,000. I saw another poster that stated the originals will go 200K. Not sure I would wait that long but don't want to replace 50k before its needed either considering the amount of labor involved.

I'd say about 2-3 hrs. (give or take) if its the first time doing it. I just did mine today following the DIY write-up (Thanx Eddy), but man...them 3 bolts (12mm I believe) in the back that supports the manifold-Jeezus, they were hard to get to!!! My hands has the 'battle' scars now... But I bet I can do it now in about an hour!!!

NiZMo1o1 04-16-2011 11:30 PM

Re: How to Replace and Install New Spark Plugs
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by conblac (Post 156143)
I'd say about 2-3 hrs. (give or take) if its the first time doing it. I just did mine today following the DIY write-up (Thanx Eddy), but man...them 3 bolts (12mm I believe) in the back that supports the manifold-Jeezus, they were hard to get to!!! My hands has the 'battle' scars now... But I bet I can do it now in about an hour!!!

yeah thats when you toss the bracket and say " Fuuuuu , you aint going back in "

trust me next time around you can have the intake off and on in 30 mins

conblac 04-17-2011 08:48 AM

Re: How to Replace and Install New Spark Plugs
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by NiZMo1o1 (Post 156205)
yeah thats when you toss the bracket and say " Fuuuuu , you aint going back in "

trust me next time around you can have the intake off and on in 30 mins

Soo true Nismo1, I didn't put 'em back...hell naw...it was hard enuff getting 'em out!!!

Thrill 05-17-2011 06:20 PM

Re: How to Replace and Install New Spark Plugs
 
Is changing out the coils just recommended? I did not plan on replacing them.

dragonlord 06-14-2011 01:50 PM

Re: How to Replace and Install New Spark Plugs
 
EddyMaxx,
New poster here. Nice to meet all. Quick question, what were the symptoms your were getting to make you suspect you had bad ignition coils? thanks For the writeup!!


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