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Old 07-24-2012, 11:09 PM   Thread Starter #1
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Default 2004 - 2006 Valve Body Replacement

2004 – 2006 Nissan Maxima Valve Body Installation Procedure

WARNING: It is not recommended that you attempt this procedure without basic mechanical skills and knowledge of automobiles. Always take safety precautions seriously when working around an automobile. A simple mistake may cause you physical harm and/or death. Improper installation may cause mechanical damage to the vehicle.

Materials needed:

o Remanufactured Valve Body

o Permatex Ultra Black RTV Silicone Gasket Maker

o 4 Qts Recommended Transmission Fluid

o WD-40

o Torque Wrench

o Ratchet

o Extensions

o Metric Socket Set

o Phillips Screwdriver

o Pocket Size Flat Head Screwdriver

o Regular Flat Head Screwdriver

o Needle Nose Pliers

o 10mm Hex Bit

o T-40 Torx Bit

o Digital Camera and/or Notepad



Always make sure you have a clean work environment with plenty of room to move around. A confined space is not recommended for this job.

We take no responsibility for damages done to yourself, others, or your vehicle.



INSTALL AT YOUR OWN RISK


For Top Access (Bottom and Side Access Also Required):

Remove the negative terminal from battery first, and then remove the positive terminal, both with 10mm socket.

Click the image to open in full size.

Remove the battery clamp and battery.

Remove the fuse block on the left side of the battery plate.

Click the image to open in full size.

Remove plastic battery tray to expose battery plate.

Remove 12mm bolts (5). Unclip wire harness from plate bracket. Use WD-40, if needed. Remove battery plate.

Click the image to open in full size.

You will find a bracket underneath that supports the battery plate. Remove 12mm bolts (2) and bracket. You’ll need to unclip another wire harness. The valve body cover is just under this bracket and is painted black.

Click the image to open in full size.

It is a good idea to hang the fuse block on the driver’s side of the car out of the way.

For Bottom and Side Access (Top Access Also Required):

Place the car on jack stands and remove the driver’s side front wheel.

Remove theleft wheel splash guard by carefully pry the center of each clip and remove the entire clip. DO NOT PULL THE CENTER COMPLETELY OUT OF CLIPS.

Click the image to open in full size.

You will be able to see the bottom of the valve body cover

Click the image to open in full size.

Remove the engine splash guard (connected to bottom of front bumper and suspension cross member) by removing the clips on the rear of guard. Carefully pry the center of each clip and remove the entire clip. DO NOT PULL THE CENTER COMPLETELY OUT OF CLIPS.

Click the image to open in full size.

Remove the 10mm screws supporting the front of the engine splash guard and lower guard.

Click the image to open in full size.

You should see the very bottom of the valve body cover and ATF cooler.

Click the image to open in full size.

Remove Valve Body Cover:

Apply WD-40 to T-40 bolts (9) securing the valve body cover.

Click the image to open in full size.

Drain transmission fluid using a 10mm hex driver into a large drain pan.

Click the image to open in full size.

Expect 3.5 to 4 quarts of fluid to drain. Keep pan handy for valve body cover removal.

Click the image to open in full size.

Remove T-40 bolts (9) from valve body cover. THE BOLT NEXT TO ATF COOLER IS DIFFICULT TO ACCESS!

Click the image to open in full size.

Place drain pan underneath valve body cover. Carefully pry around edges of cover until the seal is broken. Expect fluid to escape from behind valve body cover. Remove cover, exposing the valve body assembly.

Click the image to open in full size.

Remove Valve Body:

Important: It is a good idea to write down or photograph the connector positions and colors. In this example you will see that the rebuilt valve body has different colored connectors.

Begin by disconnecting the 5 lower solenoids using a small flathead screwdriver to push in the tab near the base of each while lightly pulling the connector out.

Click the image to open in full size.

Remove the 10mm bolt and sensor retainer.

Click the image to open in full size.

This is the retainer. After removing the bolt, it will slide off the sensor. DO NOT LOSE THIS RETAINER.

Click the image to open in full size.

Carefully pull the sensor straight out of the valve body. An o-ring will be attached. DO NOT DAMAGE THIS SENSOR OR O-RING.

Click the image to open in full size.

Disconnect the top three solenoids using a small flathead screwdriver. A pocket clip type flathead is too long to remove the middle of the three solenoids. In this case, the handle was cut to reduce the overall length.

Click the image to open in full size.

The top solenoids are difficult to remove. DO NOT BREAK TABS ON CONNECTORS. Begin by inserting the screwdriver into the connector as shown with light force. Pivot the handle of the screwdriver outward while allowing the tip to dig in and pull the connector out. GO SLOW AND BE CAREFUL. This solenoid was removed from the valve body to demonstrate connector removal.

Click the image to open in full size.

Here are the top three solenoid connector locations.

Click the image to open in full size.

Carefully move the wire harness out of the way to prepare for valve body removal. Remove the remaining 10mm bolts in numerical order. Note that bolt 1 was removed with the sensor retainer. When removing bolt 7 be sure to catch the cover and gasket. They will be reused during installation. You will need to support the valve body while removing bolts 8 and 9.

Click the image to open in full size.

Carefully pull the valve body away from the transmission and out through the top side of engine compartment. Pay careful attention to the manual valve, and control arm located at the very top of the valve body.

Click the image to open in full size.

You have successfully removed your defective valve body.

Clean Valve Body Cover, Bolts and Transmission:

Now would be a good time to clean the valve body cover, bolts and mating surface on the transmission. Make sure all gasket material is removed and both surfaces are oil free and dry.

Click the image to open in full size.

While cleaning the transmission surface, make sure that both o-rings are still inside transmission. DO NOT LOSE THESE O-RINGS. If they fall out, use a small amount of petroleum jelly to adhere them back inside transmission.

Click the image to open in full size.

Preparing Replacement Valve Body:

Based on the car’s programming, your valve body may have a spring under the one of its valves. It is important to check for this spring’s existence and transfer to the new valve body, if required. If your valve body does not have a spring, check the new valve body for the presence of a spring and remove if required. MAKE SURE YOUR NEW VALVE BODY’S CONFIGURATION MATCHES THE OLD VALVE BODY. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE COVER GASKET.

Click the image to open in full size.

If valve pops up when cover and gasket are removed, a spring is present. IF VALVE APPEARS TO HAVE NO SPRING, MAKE SURE IT IS NOT STUCK.

Click the image to open in full size.

Your replacement valve body will be shipped with the three upper solenoid/valve assemblies removed to prevent damage. They need to be installed into the replacement valve body.

Click the image to open in full size.

Begin by removing the 10mm and 8mm bolts and brackets. The 8mm bolt secures a two piece bracket. The brackets keep the three solenoid/valve assemblies shown above in place.

Click the image to open in full size.

Carefully insert the three solenoid/valve assemblies in the positions shown below. DO NOT INSTALL IN WRONG POSITION. EACH ASSEMBLY IS DIFFERENT. Install valve assembly brackets along with 10mm and 8mm bolts. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN. Your replacement valve body is ready to install.

Click the image to open in full size.

Install Replacement Valve Body:

Take time to identify the valve body bolts. There are three types: 2 Short, 3 Long, and 4 Medium. All are 10mm.

Click the image to open in full size.

Begin by inserting the top two bolts, labeled 1 and 2 in the picture below to hold the valve body in place. Carefully insert valve body into transmission, making sure it is lined up properly and seating onto o-rings. Pay careful attention to the manual valve, and control arm located at the very top of the valve body. The control arm must be reinserted into lever on transmission. The lever has been drawn to demonstrate proper positioning.

Click the image to open in full size.

Hand-tighten bolts labeled 1 and 2 enough to secure valve body to transmission, and then install bolts 3 through 9 in numerical order. Be sure to reinstall cover and gasket under bolts 3 and 9. Before installing bolt 9, carefully insert sensor between bolt 7 and 9. Slide sensor bracket around sensor to hold in place, then install bolt. Lightly snug each bolt in numerical order with a ratchet, and then torque each bolt to 87 inch pounds, again in numerical order. PAY ATTTENTION TO BOLT LENGTHS AND POSITIONS.

Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Carefully reinstall all connectors to replacement valve body. DO NOT RELY ON CONNECTOR COLORS TO MATCH SOLENOID COLORS. Refer to your own documentation made while disassembling for connection. Start with the top three solenoids.

Click the image to open in full size.

Next, reconnect the bottom five solenoids. Make sure the wires follow their natural shape and do not get crossed.

Click the image to open in full size.

Take a few minutes to make sure that all wires are routed and connected properly. Your replacement valve body is now installed.

Install Valve Body Cover:

Make sure all mating surfaces and inside of valve body cover are clean, dry, and oil-free. Apply a small bead of RTV Silicon Gasket Maker to the mating surface of the valve body cover, making sure you surround each bolt hole.

Click the image to open in full size.

Immediately install valve body cover and hand tighten T-40 bolts (9). Follow RTV Gasket Maker’s instructions for best results. Torque T-40 bolts (9) to 10 foot pounds, in the order shown below. DO NOT OVERTIGHT T-40 BOLTS. Bolt 3 is difficult to install with a conventional ratchet and extension.

Click the image to open in full size.

Wait at least one hour to allow time for RTV gasket maker to cure, and then add 3.5 quarts of transmission fluid designed for your car. THIS IS ONLY A STARTING POINT.

Click the image to open in full size.

Check Fluid Level:

Reinstall battery plate bracket, battery plate, battery tray, fuse block, battery, and battery clamp. Make sure that all wire clips and harnesses are returned to their original positions as you work.

Reinstall the left wheel splash guard.

Reinstall the left wheel and lower car.

Connect the positive terminal to battery.

Connect the negative terminal to battery.

Warm up the engine.

Check for any transmission fluid leaks.

Before driving, the fluid level can be checked using the “COLD” range on the A/T fluid level gauge.

The car should be level, and parking brake set.

Move the transmission selector lever through each gear position, leaving the selector lever in the “P” park position.

Check the fluid level with the engine idling.

Remove the A/T fluid level gauge and wipe it clean with a lint-free paper.

Re-insert the A/T fluid level gauge into the charging pipe as far as it will go.

Remove the A/T fluid level gauge and note the reading. If the reading is at or below the low side of the range, add the necessary specified A/T fluid through the A/T fluid charging pipe.

DO NOT OVERFILL THE TRANSMISSION.

Retrain Your Computer:

Your car’s computer has adapted to your old, defective valve body, and must learn how to correctly shift again.

If no leaks were detected, reinstall the engine splash guard (connected to bottom of front bumper and suspension cross member).

Restart your car. Slowly move the shift lever through each position beginning with P all the way to D, and then back to P. Pause for a second or two in each position. Repeat this cycle several times.

Drive slowly to a spot where starting and stopping is safe. Make sure you have room for car to advance through all gears automatically and then come to a gentle stop.

While completely stopped, move shift lever to “D” position for automatic shifting. DO NOT USE THE TIPTRONIC (L/H) SHIFTER.

Gently accelerate until 5th gear is reached. You will need to listen and count as the transmission automatically changes gears.

When 5th is reached, stop accelerating and gently apply the brake until the car has downshiffted back to 1st gear and come to a complete stop.

DO NOT BE ALARMED IF THE CAR SHIFTS ERRATICALLY DURING THIS PROCESS.

Repeat this process five times. Shifting should be smoother with each pass.

Repeat this process five more times, this time more aggressively.

Your computer has been retrained.

Park vehicle and re-check the fluid level using the “HOT” range on the A/T fluid level gauge.

DO NOT OVERFILL THE TRANSMISSION.

Carefully pack your old valve body for shipment back to rebuilder. DO NOT SHIP WITH TOP THREE SOLENOID ASSEMBLIES INSTALLED. Pack them separately in the box with ample padding. Damage to old valve body will forfeit your core refund.

Congratulations! You have just installed a Maxima Valve Body.

RPSuperDave

Used Motorcycle Parts - RiderParts.com

Comments
  
  Real informative post here .
  
  One of the best DIY's I have ever seen!
  
  Excellent post!!!

Last edited by rpsuprdave; 07-24-2012 at 11:29 PM.
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Old 07-26-2012, 02:55 PM   #2
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Default Re: 2004 - 2006 Valve Body Replacement

Excellent write up!
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Old 09-21-2012, 03:50 PM   #3
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Default Re: 2004 - 2006 Valve Body Replacement

Very detailed
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Old 09-22-2012, 12:48 PM   #4
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Default Re: 2004 - 2006 Valve Body Replacement

Nice post in there .
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Old 10-01-2012, 05:42 PM   #5
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Default Re: 2004 - 2006 Valve Body Replacement

real nice writeup.

*sitcky requested *
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Originally Posted by t-n-tmaxx868 View Post
Always looks great when my max grow up I want it be like urs lol
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:20 PM   #6
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Default Re: 2004 - 2006 Valve Body Replacement

Originally Posted by nixmax924 View Post
real nice writeup.

*sitcky requested *
Done!
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Old 10-09-2012, 01:24 AM   #7
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Default Re: 2004 - 2006 Valve Body Replacement

thank youuu!
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Originally Posted by t-n-tmaxx868 View Post
Always looks great when my max grow up I want it be like urs lol
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Old 11-08-2012, 05:48 PM   #8
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Default Re: 2004 - 2006 Valve Body Replacement

Thanks for the great write up. I just did this job in the parking lot and I don't think I would have tried it without the write up.

That paper gasket behind bolts 5 and 7 is super fragile. I would definitly recommend having one on hand. I think it was twenty bucks.

If you lose those o rings (one disappeared on me) sunbelt sells them for four bucks a piece.

I ended up going with the sunbelt valve body. After I pulled mine I noticed the new one had a broken solenoid so I had them send me another set. Stinks that it was broken but probably not their fault. Although they did bill me for shipping. I'll see if I can talk them out of it.

The new solenoids and valve body work great.
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Old 11-11-2012, 12:41 PM   #9
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Default Re: 2004 - 2006 Valve Body Replacement

Thanx maxlover for the review & suggestions on parts on hand to have .
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Old 11-20-2012, 01:27 AM   #10
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Default Re: 2004 - 2006 Valve Body Replacement

Hey all just wondering how this fix has turned out for those of you who have done it some time ago. How long since u did it and did u have any of the same problems again?
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Old 12-20-2012, 05:49 PM   #11
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Default Re: 2004 - 2006 Valve Body Replacement

Did the install last night, took maybe 2 hours to complete... write up is outstanding and really made this process super easy.
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:48 AM   #12
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Default Re: 2004 - 2006 Valve Body Replacement

I have a 2006 Nissan Maxima and facing similar issues with my transmission. Any recommendations for a dealer / mechanic for valve-body replacement in NJ or Tri-state area ?

My local Nissan dealer is recommending, replacing the whole transmission.

Thanks and any pointers are are much appreciated.
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Old 01-07-2013, 04:17 PM   #13
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Default Re: 2004 - 2006 Valve Body Replacement

Originally Posted by splash78kas View Post
I have a 2006 Nissan Maxima and facing similar issues with my transmission. Any recommendations for a dealer / mechanic for valve-body replacement in NJ or Tri-state area ?

My local Nissan dealer is recommending, replacing the whole transmission.
Obsolete idea.
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Old 01-08-2013, 02:12 PM   #14
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Default Re: 2004 - 2006 Valve Body Replacement

do it yourself, all you need are basic hand tools to do the job.
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:36 AM   #15
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Default Re: 2004 - 2006 Valve Body Replacement

saarmend I did this fix a few months ago and have not had any of the major problems return. Occasionally I have a had a few hard shifts but not of the same magnitude as before.
I waited until the shifts were horribly hard to do this repair because this wasn't my daily vehicle and I didn't take notice of what I wasn't driving. I have not had any of these extreme almost metallic shifts. My guess as to why I have occasional somewhat hard shifts is that there is already some damage to the transmission. oh well, it works fine for me.

don't get me wrong, this fix is worth it. I probably have one hard shift every two weeks. recently made a 1000 mile trip with no hard shifts.
if you want to know anymore about the experience i am reached most easily at
kjg4ja@virginia.edu
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Old 01-27-2013, 05:46 PM   #16
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Default Re: 2004 - 2006 Valve Body Replacement

Great write up just used it but, all I changed was just the 3 solenoids. I didn't have to remove the valve body off the car.
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:32 PM   #17
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Default Re: 2004 - 2006 Valve Body Replacement

Thank you very much for the write up, I replaced the valve body over the weekend.
Got my valve body from Valve Body Builders. I followed the guide exactly and everything went smooth. My car suffered from the hard shifts, slipping, slamming into gear just after 100k miles. It shifts WAY better the new now.
Remove T-40 bolts (9) from valve body cover. THE BOLT NEXT TO ATF COOLER IS DIFFICULT TO ACCESS!
I was able to get to this with a standard 3/8 drive ratchet and extension. Had to grind down the outside dia of the T-40 socket. If you use(or can find) a 1/4 drive T-40 it would be no problem getting in there.

-toadsix
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Old 03-07-2013, 03:57 PM   #18
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Default Re: 2004 - 2006 Valve Body Replacement

My car is at the shop right now getting this done.. After seeing this, i think i could have done it myself!! I hope they know what they are doing!!!
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:31 PM   #19
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Default Re: 2004 - 2006 Valve Body Replacement

Originally Posted by Beyond sublime View Post
Great write up just used it but, all I changed was just the 3 solenoids. I didn't have to remove the valve body off the car.
If or when my tranny starts acting up, this is the first thing im doing.

---------- Post added at 06:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:30 PM ----------

Awesome write-up!!
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:37 PM   #20
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Default Re: 2004 - 2006 Valve Body Replacement

Originally Posted by rpsuprdave View Post
2004 – 2006 Nissan Maxima Valve Body Installation Procedure

WARNING: It is not recommended that you attempt this procedure without basic mechanical skills and knowledge of automobiles. Always take safety precautions seriously when working around an automobile. A simple mistake may cause you physical harm and/or death. Improper installation may cause mechanical damage to the vehicle.

Materials needed:

o Remanufactured Valve Body

o Permatex Ultra Black RTV Silicone Gasket Maker

o 4 Qts Recommended Transmission Fluid

o WD-40

o Torque Wrench

o Ratchet

o Extensions

o Metric Socket Set

o Phillips Screwdriver

o Pocket Size Flat Head Screwdriver

o Regular Flat Head Screwdriver

o Needle Nose Pliers

o 10mm Hex Bit

o T-40 Torx Bit

o Digital Camera and/or Notepad



Always make sure you have a clean work environment with plenty of room to move around. A confined space is not recommended for this job.

We take no responsibility for damages done to yourself, others, or your vehicle.



INSTALL AT YOUR OWN RISK


For Top Access (Bottom and Side Access Also Required):

Remove the negative terminal from battery first, and then remove the positive terminal, both with 10mm socket.

Click the image to open in full size.

Remove the battery clamp and battery.

Remove the fuse block on the left side of the battery plate.

Click the image to open in full size.

Remove plastic battery tray to expose battery plate.

Remove 12mm bolts (5). Unclip wire harness from plate bracket. Use WD-40, if needed. Remove battery plate.

Click the image to open in full size.

You will find a bracket underneath that supports the battery plate. Remove 12mm bolts (2) and bracket. You’ll need to unclip another wire harness. The valve body cover is just under this bracket and is painted black.

Click the image to open in full size.

It is a good idea to hang the fuse block on the driver’s side of the car out of the way.

For Bottom and Side Access (Top Access Also Required):

Place the car on jack stands and remove the driver’s side front wheel.

Remove theleft wheel splash guard by carefully pry the center of each clip and remove the entire clip. DO NOT PULL THE CENTER COMPLETELY OUT OF CLIPS.

Click the image to open in full size.

You will be able to see the bottom of the valve body cover

Click the image to open in full size.

Remove the engine splash guard (connected to bottom of front bumper and suspension cross member) by removing the clips on the rear of guard. Carefully pry the center of each clip and remove the entire clip. DO NOT PULL THE CENTER COMPLETELY OUT OF CLIPS.

Click the image to open in full size.

Remove the 10mm screws supporting the front of the engine splash guard and lower guard.

Click the image to open in full size.

You should see the very bottom of the valve body cover and ATF cooler.

Click the image to open in full size.

Remove Valve Body Cover:

Apply WD-40 to T-40 bolts (9) securing the valve body cover.

Click the image to open in full size.

Drain transmission fluid using a 10mm hex driver into a large drain pan.

Click the image to open in full size.

Expect 3.5 to 4 quarts of fluid to drain. Keep pan handy for valve body cover removal.

Click the image to open in full size.

Remove T-40 bolts (9) from valve body cover. THE BOLT NEXT TO ATF COOLER IS DIFFICULT TO ACCESS!

Click the image to open in full size.

Place drain pan underneath valve body cover. Carefully pry around edges of cover until the seal is broken. Expect fluid to escape from behind valve body cover. Remove cover, exposing the valve body assembly.

Click the image to open in full size.

Remove Valve Body:

Important: It is a good idea to write down or photograph the connector positions and colors. In this example you will see that the rebuilt valve body has different colored connectors.

Begin by disconnecting the 5 lower solenoids using a small flathead screwdriver to push in the tab near the base of each while lightly pulling the connector out.

Click the image to open in full size.

Remove the 10mm bolt and sensor retainer.

Click the image to open in full size.

This is the retainer. After removing the bolt, it will slide off the sensor. DO NOT LOSE THIS RETAINER.

Click the image to open in full size.

Carefully pull the sensor straight out of the valve body. An o-ring will be attached. DO NOT DAMAGE THIS SENSOR OR O-RING.

Click the image to open in full size.

Disconnect the top three solenoids using a small flathead screwdriver. A pocket clip type flathead is too long to remove the middle of the three solenoids. In this case, the handle was cut to reduce the overall length.

Click the image to open in full size.

The top solenoids are difficult to remove. DO NOT BREAK TABS ON CONNECTORS. Begin by inserting the screwdriver into the connector as shown with light force. Pivot the handle of the screwdriver outward while allowing the tip to dig in and pull the connector out. GO SLOW AND BE CAREFUL. This solenoid was removed from the valve body to demonstrate connector removal.

Click the image to open in full size.

Here are the top three solenoid connector locations.

Click the image to open in full size.

Carefully move the wire harness out of the way to prepare for valve body removal. Remove the remaining 10mm bolts in numerical order. Note that bolt 1 was removed with the sensor retainer. When removing bolt 7 be sure to catch the cover and gasket. They will be reused during installation. You will need to support the valve body while removing bolts 8 and 9.

Click the image to open in full size.

Carefully pull the valve body away from the transmission and out through the top side of engine compartment. Pay careful attention to the manual valve, and control arm located at the very top of the valve body.

Click the image to open in full size.

You have successfully removed your defective valve body.

Clean Valve Body Cover, Bolts and Transmission:

Now would be a good time to clean the valve body cover, bolts and mating surface on the transmission. Make sure all gasket material is removed and both surfaces are oil free and dry.

Click the image to open in full size.

While cleaning the transmission surface, make sure that both o-rings are still inside transmission. DO NOT LOSE THESE O-RINGS. If they fall out, use a small amount of petroleum jelly to adhere them back inside transmission.

Click the image to open in full size.

Preparing Replacement Valve Body:

Based on the car’s programming, your valve body may have a spring under the one of its valves. It is important to check for this spring’s existence and transfer to the new valve body, if required. If your valve body does not have a spring, check the new valve body for the presence of a spring and remove if required. MAKE SURE YOUR NEW VALVE BODY’S CONFIGURATION MATCHES THE OLD VALVE BODY. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE COVER GASKET.

Click the image to open in full size.

If valve pops up when cover and gasket are removed, a spring is present. IF VALVE APPEARS TO HAVE NO SPRING, MAKE SURE IT IS NOT STUCK.

Click the image to open in full size.

Your replacement valve body will be shipped with the three upper solenoid/valve assemblies removed to prevent damage. They need to be installed into the replacement valve body.

Click the image to open in full size.

Begin by removing the 10mm and 8mm bolts and brackets. The 8mm bolt secures a two piece bracket. The brackets keep the three solenoid/valve assemblies shown above in place.

Click the image to open in full size.

Carefully insert the three solenoid/valve assemblies in the positions shown below. DO NOT INSTALL IN WRONG POSITION. EACH ASSEMBLY IS DIFFERENT. Install valve assembly brackets along with 10mm and 8mm bolts. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN. Your replacement valve body is ready to install.

Click the image to open in full size.

Install Replacement Valve Body:

Take time to identify the valve body bolts. There are three types: 2 Short, 3 Long, and 4 Medium. All are 10mm.

Click the image to open in full size.

Begin by inserting the top two bolts, labeled 1 and 2 in the picture below to hold the valve body in place. Carefully insert valve body into transmission, making sure it is lined up properly and seating onto o-rings. Pay careful attention to the manual valve, and control arm located at the very top of the valve body. The control arm must be reinserted into lever on transmission. The lever has been drawn to demonstrate proper positioning.

Click the image to open in full size.

Hand-tighten bolts labeled 1 and 2 enough to secure valve body to transmission, and then install bolts 3 through 9 in numerical order. Be sure to reinstall cover and gasket under bolts 3 and 9. Before installing bolt 9, carefully insert sensor between bolt 7 and 9. Slide sensor bracket around sensor to hold in place, then install bolt. Lightly snug each bolt in numerical order with a ratchet, and then torque each bolt to 87 inch pounds, again in numerical order. PAY ATTTENTION TO BOLT LENGTHS AND POSITIONS.

Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Carefully reinstall all connectors to replacement valve body. DO NOT RELY ON CONNECTOR COLORS TO MATCH SOLENOID COLORS. Refer to your own documentation made while disassembling for connection. Start with the top three solenoids.

Click the image to open in full size.

Next, reconnect the bottom five solenoids. Make sure the wires follow their natural shape and do not get crossed.

Click the image to open in full size.

Take a few minutes to make sure that all wires are routed and connected properly. Your replacement valve body is now installed.

Install Valve Body Cover:

Make sure all mating surfaces and inside of valve body cover are clean, dry, and oil-free. Apply a small bead of RTV Silicon Gasket Maker to the mating surface of the valve body cover, making sure you surround each bolt hole.

Click the image to open in full size.

Immediately install valve body cover and hand tighten T-40 bolts (9). Follow RTV Gasket Maker’s instructions for best results. Torque T-40 bolts (9) to 10 foot pounds, in the order shown below. DO NOT OVERTIGHT T-40 BOLTS. Bolt 3 is difficult to install with a conventional ratchet and extension.

Click the image to open in full size.

Wait at least one hour to allow time for RTV gasket maker to cure, and then add 3.5 quarts of transmission fluid designed for your car. THIS IS ONLY A STARTING POINT.

Click the image to open in full size.

Check Fluid Level:

Reinstall battery plate bracket, battery plate, battery tray, fuse block, battery, and battery clamp. Make sure that all wire clips and harnesses are returned to their original positions as you work.

Reinstall the left wheel splash guard.

Reinstall the left wheel and lower car.

Connect the positive terminal to battery.

Connect the negative terminal to battery.

Warm up the engine.

Check for any transmission fluid leaks.

Before driving, the fluid level can be checked using the “COLD” range on the A/T fluid level gauge.

The car should be level, and parking brake set.

Move the transmission selector lever through each gear position, leaving the selector lever in the “P” park position.

Check the fluid level with the engine idling.

Remove the A/T fluid level gauge and wipe it clean with a lint-free paper.

Re-insert the A/T fluid level gauge into the charging pipe as far as it will go.

Remove the A/T fluid level gauge and note the reading. If the reading is at or below the low side of the range, add the necessary specified A/T fluid through the A/T fluid charging pipe.

DO NOT OVERFILL THE TRANSMISSION.

Retrain Your Computer:

Your car’s computer has adapted to your old, defective valve body, and must learn how to correctly shift again.

If no leaks were detected, reinstall the engine splash guard (connected to bottom of front bumper and suspension cross member).

Restart your car. Slowly move the shift lever through each position beginning with P all the way to D, and then back to P. Pause for a second or two in each position. Repeat this cycle several times.

Drive slowly to a spot where starting and stopping is safe. Make sure you have room for car to advance through all gears automatically and then come to a gentle stop.

While completely stopped, move shift lever to “D” position for automatic shifting. DO NOT USE THE TIPTRONIC (L/H) SHIFTER.

Gently accelerate until 5th gear is reached. You will need to listen and count as the transmission automatically changes gears.

When 5th is reached, stop accelerating and gently apply the brake until the car has downshiffted back to 1st gear and come to a complete stop.

DO NOT BE ALARMED IF THE CAR SHIFTS ERRATICALLY DURING THIS PROCESS.

Repeat this process five times. Shifting should be smoother with each pass.

Repeat this process five more times, this time more aggressively.

Your computer has been retrained.

Park vehicle and re-check the fluid level using the “HOT” range on the A/T fluid level gauge.

DO NOT OVERFILL THE TRANSMISSION.

Carefully pack your old valve body for shipment back to rebuilder. DO NOT SHIP WITH TOP THREE SOLENOID ASSEMBLIES INSTALLED. Pack them separately in the box with ample padding. Damage to old valve body will forfeit your core refund.

Congratulations! You have just installed a Maxima Valve Body.

RPSuperDave

Used Motorcycle Parts - RiderParts.com
I feel comfortable with the process my only dilema is feeding a valve body, its self.
I is the dealarship the only way to purchase the valve body.
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:31 PM   #21
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Default Re: 2004 - 2006 Valve Body Replacement

Nop , Level 10 , Trans Go , Rostra , to name a few .
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:44 PM   #22
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Default Re: 2004 - 2006 Valve Body Replacement

Originally Posted by sprocketser View Post
Nop , Level 10 , Trans Go , Rostra , to name a few .
Hey! The Trans go is a different ball game. It's a kit, not the valve body itself.
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:51 PM   #23
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Default Re: 2004 - 2006 Valve Body Replacement

Originally Posted by Costee View Post
Hey! The Trans go is a different ball game. It's a kit, not the valve body itself.
True Costee , but some resolved their tranny problems with it also . I think while at it , one should put this kit also .

But what you wrote s true .
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:45 PM   Thread Starter #24
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Default Re: 2004 - 2006 Valve Body Replacement

Some of you have asked for updates since I did this write up, so here you go.

About 6 months later, the transmission started misbehaving again. I am convinced that nothing special was done to the “rebuilt” valve body I installed other than receiving a thorough cleaning. I suspect that the reason why these valve bodies fail is because of contaminants in the transmission fluid. Normal wear and tear to a transmission will release particles from the clutch discs and gearing. When the valve body gets hot, these particles get trapped and won’t allow the valves to move freely. I won’t say that there is no fix for this problem. I will say that the valve body I received from Valve Body Builders in Canada was definitely not the answer. The total cost for me to do the job myself was around $800. Although another company may have a more permanent solution, I decided not to spend any more money and traded my 06 Maxima for a 09 model.

Maybe you will have better luck than I did, but I wouldn’t recommend Valve Body Builders if you want to try to fix your transmission.

Good luck,

Dave

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Old 04-25-2013, 02:38 PM   #25
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Default Re: 2004 - 2006 Valve Body Replacement

Thanks for the feedback.
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Tags
2004, 2005, 2006, bad, hard shift, maxima, slam shift, slip, slipping, tranny, transmission, valve body

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