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Old 08-27-2010, 11:35 PM   Thread Starter #1
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Default How to Remove Your Axle's

Courtesy of !prjctmax!

How to's : Remove your axle


I only did the driver side, but the passenger side is the same with addition to 3 bolts which looked like 12mm or 14mm that hold the axle in place.

Tools required/used:
-Snap-On Impact gun
-14mm socket/wrench
-22mm deep socket or wrench
-22mm short socket or wrench
-17mm socket
-19mm wrench
-32mm socket
-4 total jack-stands...or something tall enough to rest the caliper/hub on
-pliers
-rubber hammer
-thick, long flat-head screwdriver

1.) Jack both sides of the car up and take the driver side wheel off (both sides as to release the pressure on the end-links)
2.) Life the two black rubber tabs off of the strut
3.) Use a flat-head along with a rubber hammer to hit the clip off that is retaining the brake line
4.) Use the 19mm wrench to hold the rear of the end-link and a 17mm socket to take the front nut off
5.) Get a pair of pliers and take off the cotter pin that is on the 32mm axle nut
6.) Use the 32mm socket to take the nut off the axle *Be careful not to damage the threading on the axle*
7.) Use the 19mm wrench to hold the nut on the strut and a 17mm socket to take the bolt off. There are two of these.
8.) Pop the hood and remove the plastic cover that is over the strut
9.) Prop a jack under the control arm so that it doesn't put excess pressure on it when you release the strut
10.) Remove the three 14mm nuts on top of the strut
11.) Carefully take the strut out...it weighs about 15-20lbs
12.) Loosen the brake caliper bolts with a 14mm socket , but do not fully take them off yet.
13.) Use a 22mm socket to take the caliper mount off. There are two bolts holding it down
14.) After the mount is off, carefully hold the caliper so you do not bend the brake line and now you can full dismount the caliper from the mount and put the caliper on a jack-stand or secure it on something so it does not put excessive pressure on the line.
15.) Remove the rotor
16.) Use a pair of pliers to take the cotter pin off of the tie-rod
17.) Use a 17mm socket to take the nut off of the tie-rod, then pop it off
18.) Use a pair of pliers to take off the cotter pin that is on the ball joint of the control arm
19.) Use a 22mm short socket or wrench to take the nut off the ball joint
20.) Carefully lift the hub off the ball joint and wiggle the axle out of the hub if possible, if not then put the 32mm nut back on the axle and hit it with a rubber hammer until it pops out. Then take the nut off and remove the axle fully from the hub
21.) Place the hub on a jack-stand or secure it somewhere as well because the ABS sensor is still connected and I did not want to disconnect it, figuring that something might get need to reset or debris might get in
22.) Go under the car and wedge a long flat head screw driver in between the big rusty chunk of metal that is at the end of the axle and the transmission. (I mistakenly thought that the seal was the end of the axle and hit that a few times... :bash: ) Wedge the flat-head in there and hit it with the rubber hammer a few times and re-position the flat-head if the axle doesn't pop out.
23.) After it pops out, just make sure to carefully guide it out and inspect it for any damage to the teeth...which doubtfully will have any

For a "quicker version" see this link, post #7 http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=561612

Reinstalling it is just reverse order.
-Only difficult part may be popping the axle fully into the transmission, but you can just use the rubber hammer for that.
-When putting the 17mm nut back on the tie-rod, the bolt might/will keep spinning so you just have to put pressure on it from the sides while threading the nut on completely.
-Make sure to check that the backing plate behind the rotor is not bent and touching the rotor because it will cause a hideous screech.

Everything taken apart
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Hub teeth
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Axle teeth
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Transmission teeth
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Motor Mount
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Strut mount area
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