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Old 02-07-2010, 07:35 PM   Thread Starter #1
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Default How to Change Brake Pads

Courtesy of HokieZ from my350z.com. Same process for the 6thgen.

Items needed:
Brake Pads
Jack (can use one included with car)
14mm wrench or 14mm socket/wrench
21mm socket
Torque Wrench
Large'ish C-Clamp
High Temperature Grease
Brake Cleaner

Things to make the job go easier
Electrical tape (to wrap socket in)
1/2" drive 21mm socket
1/2" drive breaker bar
2" long 1/2" drive extender
1/2" drive torque wrench
Roll around floor jack
Trolley jack block from JC Whitney
Large'ish C-Clamp
High Temperature Grease
Brake Cleaner

OK, now onto the actual stuff:

1) Make sure the car is on a level surface before beginning

2) Put on the emergency brake

3) Wrap the socket in electrical tape to keep from scratching the inside of the lug nut wells. (shown is what comes with the car since I couldn't find my extender until I'd already removed the first wheel).

Click the image to open in full size.

4) Break the lug nuts loose while the car is still on the ground.

Click the image to open in full size.

5) Look under the car and identify the proper jack point. It will have 2 small indentations in a rail running underneath the car about 1' to 1.5' behind the front wheel on each side (holy mother of god, could I wash up there please! Click the image to open in full size.):

Click the image to open in full size.

6) Jack up the car in the above location. The jack that comes with the car is suitable for this.

7) Now completely remove the lug nuts (be careful the tire doesn't fall off)

8) Remove the tire (if it hasn't fallen off)

9) You should now be staring at the brake rotor and caliper assembly (note mad photoshop skills)

Click the image to open in full size.

10) On the back side of the caliper there will be 2 bolts as highlighted in the above photo. The picture below is of one of the two bolts, the other is identical but on the other end of the caliper.

Click the image to open in full size.

11) Remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper to the mount (they'll be tight so be careful when they break loose) using the 14mm socket or wrench. (A handy alternative to removing both is to remove the one FURTHEST from the shock/spring. You can then pivot the caliper around the other bolt and don't have to worry about it dangling or falling as in step 12

Click the image to open in full size.

12) Don't let the caliper dangle by the brake line. I simply rested it on the top of the rotor. (If you want to remove the rotor, there are 2 more bolts holding the caliper mount on. Remove those, and the rotor should fall off).

Click the image to open in full size.

13) Remove the 2 old pads. I found the easiest method was to grab the wear tab and pull gently. They came right out with no real effort.

Click the image to open in full size.

14) Transfer the small metal plates on the old pads to the new ones. Put a small layer of high temperature grease between the pad the shim, then between the 2 shims on the back pad (the one the caliper contacts. The larger shim goes on the inside, with the smaller shim going over it, as seen in the picture/step above As best as I can determine, these are for pads that don't have the wear tabs built into them. I'd recommend installing them since the Hawk HPS pads don't have the tabs on one of the pads on each side. Turns out these do have a function. They protect the face of the caliper piston and keep the pad backing from scoring the piston face.

15) I installed the pad that came without the wear indicator on the rear side of the rotor since it was easier and the one with the indicator on the outside. Installing them the other way could be more useful since you will be able to visually see the pad without the indicator through the wheel without having to remove it for inspection. I get under my car alot, so....

16) Since the calipers auto-adjust to the wear of the pads, it will be necessary to compress the piston to fit over the new, wider pads. I use one of the old pads and a large C-clamp to do this. If the pads are especially worn, you may have to open the brake fluid resevoir under the hood and suck out some of the fluid as it backs up into the resevoir. Refill with appropriate fluid if necessary. Since my pads only had a couple thousand miles on them, this step wasn't necessary. It's best, if you have to push the piston back in, to thoroughly clean the piston and caliper with brake cleaner prior to pushing it back in. This removes any debris that could score the piston while forcing it back in.

Click the image to open in full size.

17) Reinstall the caliper and install the 2 bolts which were holding it on. Tighten with wrench very firmly. You may have to slide the portion on the other side of the caliper (the part with the rubber boot) back a little to get the caliper back on.

Click the image to open in full size.

18) You're now done installing the caliper on one side of the car.

19) Put the tire back on and hand snug the lug nuts (I hold the tire with one hand and tighten with the other once snug).

20) Lower the car to the ground and tighten the lugs in a star pattern to 80 ft-lbs. Basically, once one is torqued, don't torque the one right next to it on either side. Example below:

Click the image to open in full size.


Note the word of caution in step 11. If not heeded, you too may need the Mandaid. The crappy adhesive in the stock bandaid didn't work so I supercharged the little bastard with some elctrical tape.

Click the image to open in full size.

Hope this helps any of you out there considering it. It took about 45 minutes from start to finish. I'd HIGHLY recommend cleaning your wheels inside and out while you have them off the car. I live in a new development and had about 8 lbs. of asphalt cinders stuck to the inside of the wheels.


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  Awome writeup on the brakes!! Gotta do mine soon and the MANDAID HAHAH Epic
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Old 03-25-2011, 11:40 PM   Thread Starter #2
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Default Re: How to Change Brake Pads

Bump
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Old 03-26-2011, 12:48 AM   #3
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Default Re: How to Change Brake Pads

Bump..... Doing my rear pads in the morning
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Old 06-21-2011, 02:26 PM   #4
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Default Re: How to Change Brake Pads

Awesome guide. I just did both front brakes in less than an hour. The C-Clamp saved me a lot of frustration. I used a 4 inch, but I think the 6 inch or bigger, like the one in your picture, would be better. Thanx again.
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Old 06-21-2011, 02:30 PM   #5
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Default Re: How to Change Brake Pads

Originally Posted by Jaysin_X View Post
Awesome guide. I just did both front brakes in less than an hour. The C-Clamp saved me a lot of frustration. I used a 4 inch, but I think the 6 inch or bigger, like the one in your picture, would be better. Thanx again.
Isnt it amazing how easy it is??

Get yourself an 8" clamp,works great.
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Old 06-21-2011, 04:49 PM   #6
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Default Re: How to Change Brake Pads

Nice!

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Old 06-21-2011, 10:48 PM   #7
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Default Re: How to Change Brake Pads

Nice. The only thing I would add is please use a jack stand or (at the very least) a good floor jack to support the car whenever working on it.

It doesn't take nearly as much force to tip over the small spare tire jack. We never thought about it much until a a good friend lost 2 fingers trying to break free a rusted caliper bracket bolt. The car rocked just enough to let the bottom of the jack stand kick out and my friends hand got caught under the rotor when the car fell.

Don't let it scare you too much, just be safe.
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Old 06-21-2011, 11:27 PM   #8
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Default Re: How to Change Brake Pads

Originally Posted by the8thst View Post
Nice. The only thing I would add is please use a jack stand or (at the very least) a good floor jack to support the car whenever working on it.
It doesn't take nearly as much force to tip over the small spare tire jack. We never thought about it much until a a good friend lost 2 fingers trying to break free a rusted caliper bracket bolt. The car rocked just enough to let the bottom of the jack stand kick out and my friends hand got caught under the rotor when the car fell.

Don't let it scare you too much, just be safe.
NEGATIVE! DO NOT EVER EVER EVER work on your car unless it is on jack stands. DO NOT trust a floor jack only, I don't care how much the jack cost. A floor jack is meant to lift the car, NOT hold it up while you work on it.

Jack stands do not cost very much money, if you plan on doing ANY work on your car yourself, you should have at least 1 set of jackstands.
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Old 06-22-2011, 01:11 AM   #9
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Default Re: How to Change Brake Pads

Just did my pads today, very easy, even for me.
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Old 06-22-2011, 01:35 AM   #10
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Default Re: How to Change Brake Pads

Originally Posted by 1hawaii50 View Post
NEGATIVE! DO NOT EVER EVER EVER work on your car unless it is on jack stands. DO NOT trust a floor jack only, I don't care how much the jack cost. A floor jack is meant to lift the car, NOT hold it up while you work on it.

Jack stands do not cost very much money, if you plan on doing ANY work on your car yourself, you should have at least 1 set of jackstands.
You nail this dude!! and i know i make this mistake all the time use the jack to lift the car and get under to work on it and i have 2 sets of jackstands just chilling in the garage.....
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Old 06-22-2011, 01:39 AM   #11
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Default Re: How to Change Brake Pads

If anyone doesn't know how to change pads, they need to sell their car and PM me so I can ben them.

Good thread though.
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Old 06-22-2011, 03:51 PM   #12
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Default Re: How to Change Brake Pads

Originally Posted by 1hawaii50 View Post
NEGATIVE! DO NOT EVER EVER EVER work on your car unless it is on jack stands. DO NOT trust a floor jack only, I don't care how much the jack cost. A floor jack is meant to lift the car, NOT hold it up while you work on it.

Jack stands do not cost very much money, if you plan on doing ANY work on your car yourself, you should have at least 1 set of jackstands.
You caught me... you said what I wanted to say, but figured I was too new around here to fully unload about something.
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Old 06-22-2011, 03:53 PM   Thread Starter #13
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Default Re: How to Change Brake Pads

I refuse to work on a car with just a jack. NOT SAFE and you just never know the factors of that thing dropping. I put the stands before my ass gets under the car.

I ain't tryna get jacked. lol
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Old 06-22-2011, 07:08 PM   #14
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Default Re: How to Change Brake Pads

No one mention putting some sort of blocks in front of your tires when you lift up the back. Emergency brakes only lock the rear two wheels!!!
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Old 06-24-2011, 04:50 AM   #15
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Default Re: How to Change Brake Pads

Done my brakes a couple of times, easy process. Nothing too big. The other thing I would like to add is something our rotors get stuck on the hub. Get a dead-blow hammer and smack it off. The first time I thought it had a bolt or something 'till I went on the old org and found out it was just sitting there.
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Old 06-26-2011, 12:09 PM   #16
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Default Re: How to Change Brake Pads

Originally Posted by georgelv1999 View Post
Done my brakes a couple of times, easy process. Nothing too big. The other thing I would like to add is something our rotors get stuck on the hub. Get a dead-blow hammer and smack it off. The first time I thought it had a bolt or something 'till I went on the old org and found out it was just sitting there.
I always put a small metal plate over the axle end to protect it and then use a gear puller and impact wrench to break stuck rotors loose.

I rent the puller from OReilly's Auto parts for free.

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This method hasn't failed me yet, and it is usually quicker than a hammer on really stubborn rotors.
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Old 11-23-2011, 05:52 AM   #17
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Default Re: How to Change Brake Pads

thanks for the write up! after getting a quote for 500 bucks for front pads and rotors from bobby and steves world mpls mn its time to take the plunge and do it myself........
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:37 AM   #18
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Default Re: How to Change Brake Pads

Easiest way to brake the rotor free is a $5 hammer from Harbor Freight. Just be careful NOT to hit the studs. It doesn't matter if you "ding" up the rotor...you are replacing it anyway!!!
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Old 11-24-2011, 01:16 AM   #19
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Default Re: How to Change Brake Pads

Originally Posted by Achmed View Post
If anyone doesn't know how to change pads, they need to sell their car and PM me so I can ben them.

Good thread though.
I've never done brakes.

I'll be using this info thank you very much!
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Old 11-24-2011, 01:33 AM   #20
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Default Re: How to Change Brake Pads

Originally Posted by 1hawaii50 View Post
Easiest way to brake the rotor free is a $5 hammer from Harbor Freight. Just be careful NOT to hit the studs. It doesn't matter if you "ding" up the rotor...you are replacing it anyway!!!
Friend of mine told me to put my lugs back on so I wouldn't ding my studs.
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Old 11-27-2011, 08:37 PM   #21
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Default Re: How to Change Brake Pads

ive never done my brakes before, but i will be attemptign it this week. I assume the only differnece for the rear is that we have to unhook the e-brake line as well.
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Old 11-28-2011, 12:26 AM   #22
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Default Re: How to Change Brake Pads

Originally Posted by Kontra-vers-E View Post

Friend of mine told me to put my lugs back on so I wouldn't ding my studs.
Hit the rotor on the backside, and you won't be anywhere near the studs!

Originally Posted by zerosystem01 View Post
ive never done my brakes before, but i will be attemptign it this week. I assume the only differnece for the rear is that we have to unhook the e-brake line as well.
You don't need to touch the E-brake line...it goes into the hub. The E-brake uses it's own set of smaller shoes that ride inside of the hub.
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Old 12-26-2011, 12:23 AM   #23
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Default Re: How to Change Brake Pads

I will be doing a rear rotor an brake install after new years... Any advice or problems i may run into from ya'lls expierence... Only thing is im installing cross drilled slotted rotors. don't they have to point a certian way?
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Old 12-26-2011, 12:55 AM   #24
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Default Re: How to Change Brake Pads

Originally Posted by silvermax06 View Post
don't they have to point a certian way?
It won't really make a difference. FYI - the rear caliper is a PITA to get off!
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Old 12-26-2011, 06:39 AM   #25
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Default Re: How to Change Brake Pads

Originally Posted by officerfrasher View Post


It won't really make a difference. FYI - the rear caliper is a PITA to get off!
Thanks for the info. I call the shop down the street an get a quote first.. I can't afford any down time on my car.. Then i will just do the fronts myself. What makes the rears such a pain to get off vs the front?
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